Quiet Innovation Woven by Designers — HERMÈS and Its Aesthetic Successors Part 2
HERMÈS' designers have continued to quietly update the "beauty of craftsmanship" without trying to be eccentric, while staying in dialogue with the times.
Since its founding, the brand has not aimed to be at the forefront of trends, but has instead focused on creating "clothes that can stand the test of time."
That is why Hermès' past designers have always been people who can find beauty in materials, structure, and silence, while keeping strong personalities and avant-garde elements in check.
This chapter delves into the ideas and classic collections of the key designers who have shaped HERMÈS' aesthetic, focusing on the ready-to-wear division since the 1990s.
Martin Margiela (1997–2003)
The six years that Margiela, known as the "anonymous designer," spent in charge of women's ready-to-wear at Hermès was a pivotal period in fashion history.
A pioneer of deconstruction, he deliberately set aside his own aesthetic and took on Hermes as a "pursuer of inner luxury" in materials, movement, and practicality.
Of particular note is the Fall/Winter 2000 collection, which featured exquisite baby alpaca knitwear, cashmere half-coats, and one-tone looks in greige tones, all of which conveyed a powerful presence even without moving.
Everything from hooded coats, pattern designs that take into consideration range of motion, and seam treatment on the cuffs was both functional and beautiful.
Items created during this period, such as the "turtleneck knit with integrated scarf" and "front-to-back reversed blouse," are still traded at high prices on the vintage market today and are being reevaluated.
His Hermès is a rare success story that demonstrates the philosophy that "understatement is the greatest statement."
Jean-Paul Gaultier (2003–2010)
The one who inherited Margiela's "stillness" was Jean-Paul Gaultier, who excelled in the aesthetics of "movement."
Known for his decorative and provocative designs, his appointment to Hermès may seem like an unexpected choice at first glance, but Gaultier has managed to inject a new dynamism into Hermès by restraining his own wit and reconstructing "construction" and "equestrian codes."
A representative collection is the 2010 Spring/Summer women's collection, which beautifully sublimated Hermès' equestrian origins into fashion, with harness details inspired by horse tack, leather skirts resembling saddles, and the combination of riding boots and constructed shirt dresses.
In the fall/winter of 2006, he brought a sense of tension to the brand with his tight leather look and extensive use of belts, which could be called the "Hermès version of punk."
His tenure was a time when Hermès did not stick to its classic style, but instead blended cultural play with architectural refinement, broadening the brand's scope.
Christophe Lemaire (2010–2014)
Christophe Lemaire, also known for UNIQLO U, has brought back a "quiet margin" to Hermès with a style that weaves a line between Margiela-esque silence and Gaultier-esque practicality.
His aim was "luxury that fits into everyday life," and he created a unique lyricism with a color palette that was completely free of flashiness and minimalist cuts that brought out the beauty of the materials to the fullest.
The Spring/Summer 2013 collection was particularly well-received. It was a masterpiece that pursued the concept of "stillness of movement" in clothing, with loose-fitting suits in blue-gray and camel tones and gracefully flowing kaftan dresses.
Lemaire's Hermès blurred the boundaries between city and nature, practicality and sensuality, proposing beauty that functions in everyday life.
Nadège Vanhe-Cybulski (2014–present)
Nadège, who currently heads the women's line, has used her experience at Loewe and Celine to bring a "combination of structure and lightness" to Hermès.
Her collection is based on the equestrian culture from which the brand originated, and is characterized by silhouette designs that respect the mobility and physical freedom of modern women.
A prime example is the Fall/Winter 2020 collection, which featured pieces that exuded a sense of futuristic contours amidst a tranquil atmosphere, such as a tailored jacket that was tight but not restrictive, a leather dress with toggle buttons reminiscent of horse tack, and a streamlined wool coat.
In addition, in keeping with Hermès' signature style, the brand is committed to "silent details," and its structural design does not rely on brand logos or excessive decoration, but rather brings out the inner self of the wearer.
Her Hermes can be said to be the pinnacle of modern luxury, "containing the utmost intelligence and tension in something that appears simple."
Summary: Inheritance and Update Dialogue
Margiela added serenity, Gaultier added playfulness and structure, Lemaire added space, and Nadège added the future.
HERMÈS' designers are people who "continue to question without destroying," rather than changing everything.
This is where the essence of the word "luxury" lies. The HERMÈS aesthetic is all about quietly communicating with the times, while maintaining respect for the craftsmen, materials, and silence behind the brand .
