'-SPECIAL- "HERMÈS Paris" 1978–1981 Atelier Prêt-à-Porter Cashmere Coat

From HERMÈS, a saddlery workshop that began in the vicinity of the Madeleine in Paris, guided by the ideals of “the transmission of craftsmanship” and “the joy of travel,” we present an exceptional piece.

This piece was made at the Paris atelier around 1978 to 1981, in the early period of the Jean-Louis Dumas regime: a cashmere coat.

The tag is crafted from ecru rayon satin, featuring black-thread embroidery that reads “HERMÈS PARIS,” with “MADE IN FRANCE” placed vertically along the left side. The embroidery thread is a three-dimensional chain stitch made by twisting together rayon and cotton, executed with a manual embroidery machine made by Cornely.

The lining is striped woven fabric incorporating the Hermès logo, finished with red piping. The hems and front placket use a combination of hand-finishing and machine stitching for the distinctive tailoring style of the ateliers of that era.

The buttons are resin with a metal-like painted finish—an option commonly seen during the material transition period from the late 1970s to the early 1980s. Because these multiple elements overlap, this piece is judged to be from the atelier prête period, 1978 to 1981.

The cashmere—gently brushed—quietly absorbs the light, while the deep navy creates calm depth.

At the time, Hermès would hand-shrink fine-gauge cashmere and carefully refine the surface to remain evenly finished without raising the pile. The resulting “light-absorbing texture” is a beauty that is difficult to replicate with today’s materials.

The front features three buttons; the line that flows from the notch lapels to the chest keeps the upper body looking streamlined. Chest darts and princess seams elegantly cinch the waist. A soft flare that widens toward the hem lends refinement with every step.

These construction lines embody Hermès’s then-stated ideal of “elegance born from function,” and convey the Maison’s distinctive elegance—born by transferring the weight-balance design of saddlery to tailoring for clothing.

The lining is made of glossy acetate woven with the Hermès logo, with red piping subtly displayed. Hand-finished stitch marks remain in the seam allowances, and the small waviness of the piping carries the breath of the craftsperson. The slip-like feel and play of light and shadow characteristic of acetate are unmistakable proof of an atelier-made piece from the early 1980s.

Structurally, it features three-dimensional cutting: the shoulder line is rounded yet falls in a straight, crisp manner. It is an early complete form that derived women’s elegance from the construction of riding apparel, and the tension between fabric and stitching gives the silhouette a quiet, serene presence.

In that era, HERMÈS did not speak loudly about the luxury of its materials; instead, it demonstrated quality through “the very breath of tailoring.”

This is a piece from a time when the brand had moved beyond “mode” and pursued “structural beauty within everyday life,” and this piece most beautifully embodies that philosophy.

As a MOOD, it is the coat that suits those who wish to be impressed not by decoration but by quality—those who want to quietly carry refinement in their mannerisms and presence.

It has the depth of character that can be worn naturally regardless of gender, and it holds a timeless universality that never wavers with the passing of time.

For styling, layer it over a structured jacket or knit as though wrapping the air around you. Or pair it with long boots to create a vertical flow—then the silhouette’s light-and-shadow effects will stand out even more.

It will blend seamlessly even with current minimal styling, lending a quiet strength.

We invite you to take this opportunity.