-SPECIAL- “JUNYA WATANABE COMME des GARÇONS MAN PINK”2005AW Victorian lace pleated asymmetric long shirt

“JUNYA WATANABE COMME des GARÇONS MAN PINK” 2005AW Victorian lace pleated asymmetric long shirt

From JUNYA WATANABE—who has reinterpreted the structures of menswear and the very concept of ready-to-wear through its distinctive patternmaking, and has built an unmistakably clear identity even within Comme des Garçons—we present a truly rare piece from the 2005 fall/winter season in which delicate ornamentation and intricate construction are condensed into a single garment.

Built on soft white cotton, this piece brings together as one continuous design delicate lace reminiscent of antique dress shirts and night dresses, painstakingly folded pintucks, and pleats that dramatically change their character as they move toward the hem—elevating a familiar shirt form into a highly sculptural long silhouette.

At the neckline, a small stand collar forms the base and its outline is edged with finely cutout lace. On the front, multiple pintucks run vertically from the chest and are arranged to the left and right, creating a design rich in ornamentation while also forming crisp vertical lines through the upper body.

The placket features decorative wrapped buttons whose textures harmonize with the fabric and lace. Rather than making a statement through metal or large embellishments, the overall finish is elevated by layering the character of the materials themselves—an area where you can feel JUNYA WATANABE’s meticulous attention to detail.

And the most iconic aspect of this item is the construction from below the waist down to the hem: lace is inserted into the switching seam that traces a gentle curve, and from beneath it, fine pleats unfold radially. In doing so, it creates a distinctive volume in which the fabric opens up three-dimensionally in accordance with the wearer’s movement.

Rather than letting all the pleats fall in the same direction in a monotonous way, they are placed with angles changed from one panel to the next. As a result, when viewed straight on, you sense a regular beauty, while from the side or at an angle, shadows and depth emerge. This clearly reflects the approach of Junya Watanabe, transforming a flat piece of cloth into form through patterning and sewing.

Furthermore, the hem is not finished horizontally like a typical shirt. Instead, it is tailored into an asymmetrical line in which multiple points hang down for a long stretch. Along its outline, several layers of lace that evoke openwork knitting and delicate embroidery are layered upon one another, so when you walk, each part sways with a slight time difference—an engineered detail that lets you enjoy a different expression than when the garment is still.

Because lace is also placed at the cuffs in line with the lace at the neckline and hem, ornamentation does not appear fragmented anywhere throughout the garment. The design is connected as one overall motif—from the collar to the sleeves, from the waist switch, and all the way to the hem. On the back, natural gathers are taken from the yoke, giving a softer sense of volume distinct from the tightly precise pintucks on the front.

For the materials, 100% cotton is used for the main body, while the lace sections use 51% nylon and 49% cotton. By combining lace of different textures within a naturally textured fabric centered on cotton, this piece—despite being composed entirely of white—creates rich contrast through material expressions such as weaving, sheerness, the presence of texture, and pleats.

And the era is also very clear: the quality tag bears the notation AD2005, and the product code is UP-0002. In light of Comme des Garçons’ code system at the time, the leading U corresponds to JUNYA WATANABE MAN PINK, and the following P indicates the 2005 fall/winter season. With multiple matching elements—including the pink brand label—this is a piece with solid provenance as an archive from 2005AW.

Especially, the very existence of “MAN PINK” itself is fascinating. As a derivative line of JUNYA WATANABE MAN, which began in spring/summer 2003, it played a role in reconstructing ideas born from menswear and reshaping them for the female body. In this 2005 main piece—an early example of the line—starting from the shirt form at the core of men’s clothing, it boldly incorporates lace, pleats, gathers, and a long, swaying hem, resulting in a garment that goes beyond simple categorization as masculine or feminine. That alone makes it a piece of great value.

At first glance, the design may seem highly romantic, but in reality, switching of the pattern, the direction of the pleats, and even the differences in proportion between front and back are meticulously engineered. The charm of this item lies precisely in that—beauty is established not only through ornament, but through construction.

Even from today’s perspective, it offers freedom that cannot be confined to a single category—long shirts, tunics, and short dresses alike. While enjoying the presence of the garment itself, it is an item you will want to take into your own style naturally in particular.

For styling, wearing it with refined slacks to make the lace and pleats at the hem the focal point is one option. You can also layer it with a long skirt to enjoy the movement created by different lengths. Pairing it with slim trousers can also be beautiful, as it highlights the sculptural look from the upper body all the way to the hem. And if you let the lace peek out from inside a tailored jacket or long coat, you can bring it down into an elegant, mode-like balance that does not lean only toward sweetness.

Even as an archive from roughly 20 years ago, it can connect naturally with today’s genderless styling. And you can experience the philosophy of reconstruction that JUNYA WATANABE has long excelled at, in the form of an extraordinarily delicate shirt—making this piece worthy of being presented as a special collection.

We would be delighted if you take this opportunity.