-SPECIAL- “Jean Paul GAULTIER FEMME” 2005-2011 Corset lace-up tailored zip jacket

From Jean Paul GAULTIER, who in 1976 founded a brand bearing his own name and has elevated the historical adornments of tailoring, bodily presence, the boundaries of gender, and the corset into modern fashion, we present an exquisite piece that condenses the brand's aesthetics into a refined jacket.

Based on a classic black tailored jacket, this piece expresses a formal, structured silhouette with a distinctly Gaultier-inspired awareness of the body through the front double-zip closure, the back lace-up, and the three-dimensional panels around the waist.

This is an officially distributed item in Japan under the Onward Kashiyama license for Jean Paul GAULTIER FEMME, and because the tag shows Onward Kashiyama, a customer service line starting with 0120, the old JIS washing instructions, and the management code CA. 0906, we can judge it with high reliability as a piece dating from roughly 2005 to 2011, centered on the late 2000s. In particular, since Onward's domestic distribution in Japan ended in 2015 and the labeling is not the new JIS standard from 2016 onward, this is not a current item but a domestically regular line from that era.

What first catches the eye design-wise is not a conventional button-front but a vertical double-zip running down the center of the jacket; while maintaining a crisp lapel and shoulder line, it adds an industrial and slightly punk tension to the classic blazer. The zipper uses YKK sliders, and with the included fabric pull and metal eyelets, it becomes more than a simple opening mechanism, establishing a detail that blurs the boundary between practicality and decoration, a hallmark of Gaultier's approach.

At the front bottom, a horizontal panel-like cut extends outward, and the curved line flowing from the waist to the hem adds depth and a sense of bodily movement to the otherwise flat black jacket. Although it is in a single black color, the shading is created by the stitching and the overlap of fabrics; seen from a distance it reads as minimalist, but up close you can feel the density of the design—a remarkably high level of craftsmanship.

On the back, the jacket's greatest allure, the bold lace-up detailing, is arranged along the spine, evoking a corset and naturally translating Gaultier's iconic bodily expression into a tailored context. This is not mere decoration but a design that visually tightens the waist and gives tension and sensuality to the rear view, making the back of the classic jacket host another starring element—this is a major added value unique to this piece.

The outer fabric is 100% wool, the lining is cupro, delivering the wool's firm drape and the cupro's smooth wearing feel, ensuring not only a strong design but also everyday wearability. The size is labeled 40, and with its sharp shoulder and waist shaping, it flatters a feminine silhouette while also being highly compatible for those who wish to incorporate the body's curves into a genderless look.

In Jean Paul GAULTIER, the corset has long been reinterpreted not as a purely feminine decoration or as clothing to hide the body, but as a code to construct the body; this jacket embodies that philosophy without excessive drama, integrating it into everyday tailoring. Although it is an Onward domestic-licensed piece, the combination of a front zip, back lace-up, and curved paneling firmly speaks to Gaultier's context, and it is a worthwhile archive piece to delve into deeply as part of the MOOD Special Collection.

Styling-wise, pairing it with draped wide-leg trousers or a refined long skirt highlights the jacket's structured waist for a fashionable, sophisticated look. Alternatively, wear it over a simple dress or clean bottoms, leaving the front zip slightly open to subtly evoke Gaultier's bodily presence while giving everyday attire a strong contour.

We invite you to seize this opportunity.