Yves Saint Laurent - Safari, See-Through, and 70s Innovation [Part 3]
The innovations that Yves Saint Laurent made in fashion history were not limited to "Le Smoking" and the "Mondrian Dress" in the mid-1960s. In the 1970s, he became even more bold, crossing the lines between "everyday and sensuality" and "practical and fashion," and continuing to renew the social and cultural roles of clothing.
In Part 3, we will delve into his signature safari jackets and see-through blouses, as well as his iconic work from the late 1970s and 1980s, and consider how his aesthetics can be translated into the modern era.
Safari Jacket (Saharienne): Bringing a Spirit of Adventure to the City
In 1967, Saint Laurent introduced the "Safari Jacket" to his collection. This beige jacket, made from cotton or linen, featured large flap pockets and a waist belt, bringing outdoor functionality directly into the city.
The following year, model Véronique Sanson wore it in a photo essay for Vogue Paris, garnering widespread attention. This look symbolized travel and mobility for women, while also elegantly translating the symbols of military uniforms and clothing. Practical elements were elevated to elegance, bringing a new sense of freedom to everyday life.
For a modern take, try wearing a khaki or sand-colored jacket as if it were tailored, with a silk blouse or knitted sweater underneath for a soft look. The contrast between heavy and light naturally recreates the "combination of adventure and sensuality" that Saint Laurent presented.
See-through blouses: Transparency brings sexiness
In the early 1970s, Yves Saint Laurent introduced blouses made bold use of see-through materials. At the time, they were criticized as being "too revealing," but what he proposed was not simply to emphasize the naked body, but to find sensuality in the "ambiguous area" that arises between fabric and skin.
Sheer chiffon and organza blouses, paired with bralettes or tank tops underneath, cover the skin while leaving some space to show it off. This is an extension of the "aesthetics of white space" that Saint Laurent always valued, and was an attempt to elevate the female body from a mere object of decoration to a place of subjective expression.
See-through fabric remains a powerful weapon even today. Simply wearing a sheer black or deep navy top under a jacket, with a slight sheerness peeking out from the cuffs or collar, is enough. The essence of Saint Laurent's interpretation lies in the sexiness expressed not through exposure but through "white space."
Late 1970s to 1980s: Ethnic orientation and decorativeness
In the late 1970s, Saint Laurent actively incorporated diverse cultural motifs from Africa, Russia, China, and other countries. In particular, his 1976 "Russian Collection" featured an abundance of luxurious embroidery, fur, and Byzantine-style decorations, providing a "couture-like experience in ready-to-wear." This show was greeted with amazement by critics, who wondered how fashion could so dramatically translate culture, and is considered one of the pinnacles of his career.
Furthermore, in the 1980s, he introduced power shoulders and shiny materials, endowing his clothes with a sense of strength that encouraged women to advance in society. However, this was not simply a display of power; he always incorporated the softness of silk and chiffon somewhere, maintaining a balance between strength and sensuality, which was characteristic of Saint Laurent.
MOOD Translation: "Adventure," "Space," and "Cultural Editing" in Everyday Life
If we want to apply these iconic designs left behind by Saint Laurent to our daily lives, it is useful to think about them along three axes.
First, "adventure." As exemplified by the safari jacket, this piece brings a "moving scent" to everyday clothing. Using a lightweight khaki coat or multi-pocket jacket as a base, paired with a subdued monochromatic inner layer, this piece combines functionality and sensuality.
Next is "white space." See-through and sheer materials are not used to show bare skin, but to create "white space" that can be seen and hidden while covering up. By adding a sheer look to the sleeves or collar from under a knit or jacket, the whole look can suddenly become more fashionable.
Finally, there's "cultural editing." When incorporating different cultures and decorations, the key is to translate them into partial elements, rather than overly costume-like in the modern era. For example, Russian embroidery can be incorporated into everyday life by "quoting" only the edges of a stole, or Byzantine-style jewelry motifs.
From MOOD's perspective, it is essential to achieve a balance between structure, white space, and symbols. The structure is the straight lines of the outerwear, the white space is transparency and differences in materials, and the symbols are accessories or decorative details. By being mindful of this ratio, we can translate the "aesthetics of freedom and sensuality" left behind by Saint Laurent into our own closets.
