“JUNYA WATANABE” 97AW Textured wool single-breasted coat

There is a tear on the left side of the lining near the waist.

Junya Watanabe continues the spirit of Comme des Garçons while sharpening the structure and material handling of clothing through more experimental means. Its core aesthetic is to create contours solely through cutting and texture without relying on decoration, and it has strength in constructing expressions even from the color black. While maintaining the form of everyday wear, the design raises the information level immediately upon close inspection, and this time, we introduce a piece with a refined texture design.

This is a masterpiece from the 1997 AW archive pieces.

The surface features a finely connected pattern of black with subtle irregularities, and the light creates a particle-like shadow that fluctuates with the angle, giving depth even in a single tone. The collar is designed slightly larger, with a shape that falls gently to the chest without sharp tips, creating a neat appearance when buttoned and a quiet volume around the shoulders when open.

The front features a single placket with buttons aligned vertically, and the subdued sheen black buttons blend with the fabric’s shadow, subtly outlining the silhouette. The edges of the placket appear straight, and the buttonholes are unobtrusive, giving the overall clean appearance despite the rich texture.

The shoulders naturally fall into line, connecting to the sleeves, which also fall straight down without excessive puffiness, maintaining a long vertical line from the front. The hem extends straight below the knees, and since there are no cut-ins or decorations along the body, the texture of the fabric itself forms the design. The back is similarly minimal, with a flat construction that flows smoothly from the shoulder blades to the hem, with subtle shadows and contours that change quietly when moving.

The unique value of this piece lies in elevating the universally known shape of a black minimal coat to a Junya Watanabe-like tension solely through the density of its texture. From afar, it appears as a well-proportioned long black coat, but up close, you can see the three-dimensional weave, and the restrained presence of the collar and buttons overlaps, leaving a quiet experimental mark characteristic of the 1997 AW collection.

In daily life, those who often wear black tend to convey beauty more easily, and even in refined settings like after-work dinners or gallery visits, it’s pleasing that the understated look doesn’t become forgettable. The heaviness often seen with thick outerwear is less noticeable, and the textured shading helps maintain a polished silhouette, making it a natural fit for days when you want to elevate your usual outfit.

Styling-wise, pairing a high-quality knit with neat slacks and finishing the look with leather shoes creates an elegant harmony, as the relaxed collar and vertical lines naturally stand out. Another idea is to combine a minimal shirt with wide trousers and add a long scarf around the neck, layering shadowed textures over the black surface, which beautifully creates a mode-like tension.

Take this opportunity.