-SPECIAL - “CHANEL” 70’s-80’s Gripoix glass cabochon charm sautoir necklace

From CHANEL, which has elevated costume jewelry to the starring role in fashion not only by relying on the value of gemstones, but also through its relationship with color, form, and styling, we are pleased to introduce a truly rare piece that combines craftsmanship with a sculptural sense of presence.

Starting with a rope chain in a rich gold tone, four charms of varying sizes—each cradling Gripoa glass in ruby red and cobalt blue—are linked together in a dimensional composition, allowing you to experience both the refinement of fine jewelry and the freedom of a sculptural object.

In the decorative section, multiple distinct forms are combined: a flattened oval with red cabochons arranged irregularly; an egg shape set with red and blue glass positioned to the left and right; and a droplet shape through which a deep wine-red color lets light pass. Rather than repeating a single motif, the piece creates an abundant rhythm through variation in shape and scale.

The colored glass, made possible by the pâte-de-verre technique inherited by Gripoa, offers depth and subtle, delicate wavering unlike uniform gemstones. The red-toned cabochons shift in character—from a dense, near-black shade to vivid ruby color—while the cobalt blue placed at the center neatly tightens the entire composition with poise.

Each link that makes up the chain is carved with fine, rope-like grooves; therefore, depending on the angle at which it catches the light, gradations of gold appear, creating a cohesive sense that naturally connects to the charm’s substantial presence. Furthermore, by intentionally exposing the large circular ring fittings at the neckline and within the decorative section, the piece lets the clasp itself—normally hidden—stand as part of the design, reflecting CHANEL’s distinctly free-spirited imagination.

The structure that gathers multiple embellishments at the end of the long chain causes the charms to slightly overlap as you walk, and each time, the way the glass and metal appear changes. As a result, the necklace contains the beauty of movement that cannot be fully conveyed in a stationary moment. Using dazzling materials yet never confined to the role of mere ornament, it can be enjoyed as a sculpture that is completed the moment it is worn—this is the significant added value unique to this necklace.

The included circular plate bears marks indicating copyright and registered trademarks in addition to CHANEL, the double C, and MADE IN FRANCE. This arrangement of engravings aligns with specifications used from around 1971 through the early 1980s. Since oval plates accompanied by later-era year numbers or season codes are not observed, the piece can be introduced as an individual from primarily the latter half of the 1970s to around 1980, and it also possesses documentary value that preserves the rich costume jewelry culture cultivated by the Maison.

Especially recommended for those who seek sculptural expressiveness unattainable with understated jewelry, or for those who wish to enjoy vintage as a meeting point between craftsmanship and fashion rather than simply as an item of its era. With the addition of just one piece, it can clearly set the overall focal point of your outfit—an presence worthy of a special collection.

For styling, you may highlight the charms’ volume by letting the chain fall long over a tailored shirt and wide trousers. Alternatively, layering them over a no-collar jacket or a long dress allows you to incorporate the classic brilliance CHANEL created with a contemporary balance. This is a piece that adds historical depth and a mode-leaning sense of presence to a streamlined outfit without being constrained by gender or existing notions of jewelry.

We would be delighted if you took this opportunity.