"The best solution for autumn/winter outerwear" - Between "trend" and "classic," what should you choose from now on?
1. The outerwear problem in an era where autumn and winter change in an instant
In recent years, it has often been said that Japan is becoming a "two-season country."
A long, humid period followed by the sudden arrival of winter.
Until recently,
- September to October: Light outerwear
- November to February: Heavy coat
- March: Back to a lighter tone
There used to be this rhythm, but now it's more like warping from "hot" to "cold" in one step.
Amid these changes, the traditional idea that "if you buy a long wool coat you'll be safe" is no longer sufficient, making it difficult to strike a balance between the length of time you will wear it and the investment required.
So, given the current climate and lifestyle, what is the “optimal solution” for autumn and winter outerwear?
This time, we'll take a look at everything from classic coats to the latest collections, and take a closer look at how to choose your outerwear in the future, somewhere between trends and classics.
2. First, identify the core classical music
When talking about autumn and winter outerwear, the foundation that cannot be avoided is the so-called "classic" coats.
- Burberry and Aquascutum trench coats, grown up in a rainy culture
- Chester coats and polo coats have become sophisticated city men's clothing.
- The slim silhouette of long coats and suits by Yves Saint Laurent in the 1960s and 1970s
- A minimalist coat with minimalist embellishments, as seen in the 90s Jil Sander collection
Although the details and lengths vary, they all share a common theme of "straight lines and a silhouette that is slightly detached from the body."
Even in recent years,
- Long coat from The Row
- Phoebe Philo-era Céline's clean wrap coat
- Lemaire's rounded yet flowing coat
These are good examples of classical music updated to suit modern physical sensibilities.
The good thing about this "classical axis" is that it leaves an impression not through buzzwords but through the beauty of the "lines."
No matter how much trends change, the straight front, ample shoulder space, and comfortable length just above and below the knee have almost no expiration date.
3. Meanwhile, the trend is coming with "exaggerated coats."
Outerwear trends often tend to come across as exaggeration.
- The oversized coat with wide shoulders, a hallmark of Demna-era Balenciaga
- A down jacket with an extreme cocoon silhouette that contrasts with slim bottoms
- The resurgence of colored coats (bright red, lime green, cobalt blue, etc.)
- An outerwear that "feels warm just by looking at it" made with large amounts of patent leather and eco-fur
Looking at recent collections from Prada, Loewe, and Bottega Veneta, coats have been featured prominently on the runway as an item that makes an instant statement with its silhouette.
The tricky thing here is that the more "this year's style" you can create, the more difficult it will be to handle in the following years. While having one coat with exaggerated shoulders or a bold color can certainly lift your spirits, they tend to be a little unstable as a "core piece that you'll wear every year."
However, that doesn't mean you should avoid all trendy outerwear.
Because outerwear takes up a large surface area, it can also "change the mood of your entire closet in an instant."
4. Considering the "optimal solution for the future" in Japan as the country moves towards two seasons
As Japan's climate moves towards a two-season structure with long summers and short, sharp winters, the role expected of outerwear is gradually changing.
Roughly speaking,
- "Something that lasts a long time depending on the temperature."
- "The silhouette and fabric define the mood of the season."
It will be easier to organize if you think of it in two parts.
① A long-lasting "bridge" outerwear
- Lightweight wool/nylon blend coat
- One-piece gown coat
- A short blouson with thin padding, perfect for layering
These outerwear items are surprisingly worn for long periods of time, from October to December and March to April.
Although it is a light coat, the temperature you feel can be adjusted depending on the innerwear, making it a staple in your wardrobe as a "safety net for times when the temperature is unpredictable."
② “Symbolic” outerwear that sets the mood of the season
On the other hand, it is a reliable product during the coldest time of winter.
- Thick woolen Chester
- Three-dimensional down coat
- A voluminous coat made of mouton or alpaca
Even if you only wear these for a short period of time, they are likely to become the item that determines the image of winter that year.
It might be a good idea to mix in a few trendy elements here. Drop the shoulder line a little more than usual, make the length a little longer, or choose a color with a slightly nuanced tone. Just by doing this, when paired with basic items you already own, you can gently update the seasonal atmosphere.
5. How to balance "classic + trend"
When considering the closet as a whole, autumn and winter outerwear is
- Classical music that serves as an unshakable foundation
- A trendy piece that captures the mood of the year
I think these two are a natural balance.
For classic styles, try the Chesterfield coat mentioned above, a simple trench coat, or a long coat that is closer to being tailored.
For a trendy piece,
- Oversized with slightly dropped shoulders
- Playing with materials like leather, shaggy, and quilting
- The colors and details give it a modern feel
Select the following.
And if we take into account the reality of "Japan's two seasons,"
・While focusing on the "bridge coat" that can be worn for a long time,
It includes a "symbolic photo" to enjoy during the winter weeks.
This way of thinking may be a good compromise between price and availability.
6. Outerwear of the future will deal with not only temperature but also speed.
Another thing you can't ignore when choosing your outerwear is the speed of the city.
With the rise of remote work and flexible working, simple distinctions such as "I need a coat because I'm going to the office" and "I don't need a coat on the weekend" are becoming less effective. Now, what is required of outerwear?
- Fits seamlessly into work and walking around town
- Being able to tolerate weather changes to some extent
- No discomfort when moving between indoors and outdoors
This means flexibility in both temperature and speed.
Outerwear that lies somewhere between tech and classic, such as a modern trench coat made from a mix of nylon and polyester, a water-repellent wool coat, or a piece with a detachable liner, is one answer to this ``speed.''
A closet where classic old coats coexist with the latest functional materials.
This mix is likely to become the realistic "optimal solution" for the coming autumn and winter.
A word from MOOD
At MOOD, we feel that the era in which outerwear was chosen solely for its cold weather protection is quietly coming to an end.
- Even if you only wear it for a few weeks out of the year, the moment you put it on, it will define your winter memories.
- This piece acts as a bridge, subtly accepting the long fluctuations of the seasons.
Both have equally important roles.
When you're torn between trend and classic,
"I wonder how this piece will go with my winter speed."
If you think about it this way, your selection criteria may become a little clearer.
MOOD hopes to continue to explore ways to discover such pieces together from an elegant, fashionable, and genderless perspective.
