'-SPECIAL- "HERMES" 90's Military-inspired zip design tailored jacket

Beginning with a harness workshop in the vicinity of the Chapelle de la Madeleine in Paris, and with “the legacy of craftsmanship” and “the joy of traveling and going places,”

as its concept, from HERMÈS we present an exceptional piece of the finest quality.

Among HERMÈS ready-to-wear, this is a standout piece whose design achieves “tailoring” and “practicality” with the same intensity—an appeal that truly speaks to its character.

First, as evidence of its era: the neck tag features a design of a carriage logo plus “HERMES PARIS,” and it also includes a vertically written “MADE IN FRANCE” on the left edge—making it a specification commonly seen in ready-to-wear lines from the late 1990s to the early 2000s.

In terms of timing, it overlaps with Martin Margiela’s tenure (1997–2003); however, this particular piece strongly reflects a “sport/travel” context that translates the maison’s heritage into something practical. Rather than the pared-down feel of a runway piece, the core of its design lies in refining the wearability when on the body into a more luxurious form.

The star of the design is, at first glance, the poised presence of a long jacket—quietly incorporating details meant for use as tools.

With the construction of the notch lapels, the vertical placement of the body’s paneling, and the front line designed to align the waist position, it creates an atmosphere in which simply wearing it lifts your center of gravity and makes even your posture look refined.

On top of that, the chest pockets layer zip elements in addition to the flap, and the waist pockets are also consolidated with a slanted zip and its pull. In this way, it solves the “weakness of storage” often found in classic jackets, while preserving the dignity unmistakably associated with HERMÈS.

And this use of zips is especially clever. Instead of shining and demanding attention, leaving them as lines helps prevent the surface from breaking, while also playing a role in drawing the eye vertically—making the silhouette look composed.

Buttons are also a point worth discussing. With “HERMES PARIS” on the front buttons and on the sleeve cuffs, rather than proclaiming the logo, they have been refined into a level of strength only the wearer can truly be confident in.

When you look inside, you’ll find an HERMÈS motif running through a jacquard lining with a stripe-like feel, and the placket is finished with red piping—so the outside remains restrained, while a sense of uplift is created from within. This results in a “hidden luxury.”

Letting the elegance derived from saddle design be felt through the structure of the garment and its interior—the aesthetics this brand has long been good at are present here in a way that feels fully intentional.

For styling, you can make the mood come alive simply by taking advantage of the jacket’s composed poise and the nuance of travel—pairing it with a high-quality shirt and slacks, then finishing with polished leather shoes with a sheen.

If you’d like to loosen things up a bit, pair a lightweight cut-and-sew with bottoms that drape, and add a scarf or a narrow stole at the neckline. The background of HERMÈS will then naturally linger on you.

Please take this opportunity.