'-SPECIAL- "Burberrys" 90's Collar switching two-tone trench coat

With its classic and traditional style, we present a special piece from BURBERRYS, a brand regarded as an official supplier to the British Royal Household.

This item is BURBERRYS’s wool trench coat, where a contrasting brown color across different materials forms the starting point of the design, bringing British classicism into a modern silhouette.

The point that the brand name is shown as “Burberrys” on the older logo rather than the current “BURBERRY” lettering is a reliable clue indicating production prior to 1999. In addition, considering the “OF LONDON” tag in navy, as well as the specifications of quality tags that include material descriptions in multiple languages, it seems natural to view this as a piece from the 1990s, when global distribution had been firmly established.

The design character of this coat lies not in “adding” the symbols of a trench, but in “paring and refining” them. Elements that originally remain as traces of functionality—such as gun flaps, epaulettes, and cuff straps—are arranged so they do not overstate themselves, but instead work as part of the surface composition and guide the eye. As you examine the details, nothing feels scattered, and the overall presence is quietly tightened. In particular, the double-breasted front placket has a structure in which the button placement naturally leads the eye vertically; by creating a “straight skeletal line” from the chest down to the hem, it keeps the impression of a long length poised rather than vague.

That the fabric is 100% wool also strongly supports this design philosophy. Rather than creating crisp edges with firmness like cotton gabardine, the drape unique to wool connects the shoulder to the hem as a single, smooth surface. The moment you move, the silhouette comes forward with “shading rather than lines.” The back yoke, beyond its origin as a wind-deflecting measure, functions as a structural layered section that makes the fabric sway a beat later while walking, producing depth in the back view—truly a mark of quality.

And what makes this piece truly special is the use of contrasting materials and the color-blocking design of the collar. Against a beige body, adding a brown, brushed texture creates “temperature” and “density” only around the face, raising the visual center of gravity. As a result, even with a long length, it does not feel stretched; the upper body looks more refined and pulled together. This is not decoration—it is a design approach intended to balance the proportions. Moreover, because the brushed collar absorbs light while the wool surface of the body reflects softly, within the same calm tone, the difference in texture creates shaded gradients. It’s also attractive that the amount of visual information increases significantly when viewed up close. The details may bring to mind so-called “country” or “hunting” elements, but here it avoids any rough, earthy feel and instead becomes an urban refinement. In that sense, it also resonates with a Dior-like elegance—“a classic sensibility” expressed in a sophisticated way.

You should not overlook the belt either. When tied, it creates a single point of tension at the waist, and because the drape does not “escape outward” but rather “converges inward,” the sense of dimensionality deepens further. Conversely, when left hanging, the vertical lines of the belt reinforce the vertical direction of the front panels, leaving the swaying length as a more dressy lingering impression. Either way is correct—indeed, it is part of what makes vintage quality so special: the way you wear it becomes an integral part of the design.

For styling, match the surfaces neatly with a shirt and wool slacks, letting the coat’s play of shadows and the difference in collar texture take center stage to enhance overall finish. Another idea is to pair a minimal knit with a refined long skirt—or a straight pair of trousers—and keep the belt tied only lightly. This leaves the symbols of classic design while also bringing the look closer to today’s mood.

By all means, seize this opportunity.