–SPECIAL– “HERMES” 90’s-00’s Bias rib merino knit sweater

From HERMÈS, a house whose practical eye has been cultivated in the craft of harness-making and transformed into quiet elegance in apparel, we invite you to discover an exceptional piece of rare excellence—one in which the beauty of the structure itself leads directly to beauty.

This exceptional piece is an extremely rare archive item in which the flow of the knit alone creates such rich sculptural form.

What first sets this piece apart is its construction: rather than letting the rib knit—normally aligned in orderly vertical lines—be intentionally shifted broadly to the diagonal. Because the direction of the raised ribs that run from the neckline toward the body and down to the hem is not uniform, even when laid flat, a strong sense of three-dimensionality is already created. This is not merely a thick knit; the knit fabric itself envelops the body like cloth, and the design naturally draws the viewer’s gaze toward the center. Even with almost no decorative elements, a satisfying presence is fully established.

The front is particularly outstanding. The rib transitions that seem to radiate out from around the neckline create shadows as if a single piece of fabric has been twisted and secured. When worn, one can easily imagine how the look will shift even further in response to the body’s thickness and movement. While conventional rib knits prioritize vertical stretch and a neatly structured appearance, this piece incorporates the way it falls when worn into the design itself by changing the direction of the knit. Although the look appears calm, it is clear that a highly sophisticated approach to pattern-making and knit-goods engineering has been applied.

The neckline is formed with a rise that is not too high—balanced precisely between a turtleneck that closes too much and a mock neck that can feel too plain. As a result, it gives the face a suitable contour without making the overall impression feel rigid, while preserving the natural softness that knitwear inherently offers and translating it into refinement. Moreover, because the knit fabric continues seamlessly from the neck onto the shoulders, rather than revealing a clear line through a simple transition, the shoulder line becomes subtly ambiguous using only the angle of the knit. The result is a look that allows you to feel both structure and softness at the same time.

The sleeve design is also highly distinctive. The length, taken quite generously relative to the overall proportions, creates a silhouette that is not simply oversized, but leaves an echo at the ends beyond the body’s outline. Since the rib direction runs in harmony with the bodice as well, when the arms are lowered the vertical fall becomes more pronounced, and when moving the shadowing of the raised ribs should shift richly. This way of taking length is not driven by practicality alone—it is proof that the air created between the garment and the body has been designed as part of the piece. It strongly echoes the philosophy that HERMÈS in the Margiela era held dear: to allow beauty to exist without tightening the body.

The back is equally complete. With the ribs running boldly in a diagonal direction all the way across the back, there is no monotony from any angle. Whereas the front presents a centripetal composition, the back reads as a more straightforward continuation of the knit fabric. As the wearer moves, the entire knit should sway fluidly, preventing the stagnant feeling often associated with heavy winter outfits. Even though it is a thick knit, the reason it does not look unexpectedly heavy is that the rib-direction design works precisely.

The material is also of exceptional value. One should not overlook the point that, even among merino wool, using delicate raw material fine enough to carry the SUPER FINE designation, this piece manages to establish both the depth of its body and its three-dimensional presence. Generally, delicate wools tend to be guided toward a thinner, smoother direction; here, however, without sacrificing the quality of the yarn, it has been knit into a fabric that is properly substantial. The appearance offers a generous volume, while when touched, it should avoid any excessive roughness. Even now, after the passage of time, the density and power of the knit remain—this in itself tells you the high standard of material selection and product realization.

As for the era, it is most natural to view it in relation to Martin Margiela’s tenure from the late 1990s to the early 2000s—more specifically, around 1997 to 2003—and that judgment is supported by solid evidence. First, the Japanese quality-labeling indicates HERMÈS Japon Co., Ltd., and the care instructions follow an older JIS standard, allowing us to rule out the possibility that it is a product made after 2016. At the same time, it cannot be traced back to before 1983. Beyond that, the ivory-toned logo tag, the loop-style size tag, the country-of-origin tag in three languages—French, English, and Spanish—and above all, the complex bias-like rib knit and the extreme sense of proportion all align very strongly with the design thinking seen in knitwear from HERMÈS during the Margiela era. In other words, not only do the textual information point in the same direction, but the physical design language does as well—so this dating can be considered highly reliable.

The reason this exceptional piece holds a special place as a MOOD special collection is not merely that it can be inferred to belong to the Margiela era; it is because HERMÈS’s inherent refinement and Margiela’s freely conceived perspective on the body come together with remarkable purity. Without relying on hardware or ornamentation that symbolizes the brand, it speaks of luxury through nothing but the quality of the materials, the direction of the knit, and the spacing of the silhouette. For that reason, it is a piece whose value will resonate more deeply depending on the sensitivity of the viewer. Rather than being a so-called eye-catching garment, it is clothing that quietly and beautifully frames the wearer’s contours and mannerisms. This is truly the point where the matured aesthetic of HERMÈS and Margiela’s ideas meet most beautifully.

It is also important that, although this is a thick knit, it does not end as mere cold-weather outerwear. The flow of the knit fabric creates drape and shadow directly, and while enveloping the wearer’s body, it effectively redraws the lines. As a result, the warmth needed for winter and the structural foundation required for mode are achieved in a way that feels effortless within one piece. The reason collectors around the world keep searching is surely not just because this description is easy to make—it must be the level of completion that can only be understood when you actually see it and wear it. As MOOD, we believe that this kind of item—equipped with historical significance and practicality, and freshness that can connect to contemporary styling—holds particularly strong meaning within a special collection.

We especially recommend it for those who want to deepen their outfit using only materials and structure rather than dazzling embellishments, and for those who genuinely enjoy a high-quality archive in everyday life. Within the familiar category of knitwear, there are not many pieces in which the design philosophy is so clearly visible. Since it does not limit the wearer’s gender and does not strongly dictate the body’s lines, it should become something that brings out each person’s beauty while receiving their unique mannerisms and atmosphere.

For styling, pairing it with trousers that have a soft drape or well-tailored wool trousers will allow you to straightforwardly enhance the knit’s structural flow. Alternatively, if you match it with a minimal long skirt or neat, slim bottoms, the contrast with the volume of the upper body will create a highly refined impression.

Please take advantage of this opportunity.