"HERMES"00's Belted double-breasted Mackintosh coat

Since its founding in 1837, HERMES has continued to pursue luxury—grounded in exceptional craftsmanship developed through harness making—striving to combine practicality with refined beauty. From HERMES, we present a piece with the refined design that is distinctive of the Martin Margiela period.

The soft greige color and the fabric’s expression, where delicate weaves appear, harmonize beautifully. This signature piece elevates the structure of a classic trench coat into a minimalist presence with reduced extraneous decoration.

This piece dates to the early 2000s, when Martin Margiela was working on HERMES women’s collections. Inside, handling labels distinctive to Mackintosh remain, and in addition to the material composition combining wool and cotton, specifications closely resembling those of the 2001 autumn/winter archive can be confirmed—making it a valuable item that carries the design of that time into the present.

First to catch the eye is the greige color, which receives natural light and creates gentle shadows. It softens the impression that trench coats can often feel somewhat impersonal, while highlighting the expression of the quality of the material itself.

At the neckline, a pointed collar sized for a pleasing presence is placed, creating a neat impression around the face. It also forms a beautiful line when the collar is opened, so you can enjoy different expressions depending on how you style it.

The front is designed in a double-breasted style. Buttons in muted tones naturally harmonize with the fabric, leaving intact the design character of a traditional trench coat while keeping the overall look clean and streamlined.

At the waist, there is a belt made of the same fabric, and the buckle with a brown trim serves as a discreet accent. In addition, you can adjust the silhouette by tightening the belt—allowing it to work across a wide range of looks, from loosely draped styling to a more structured style that defines the waist.

On the sleeves, there is an adjustable strap accompanied by metal eyelets—practical details that also lend the overall design a well-judged sense of tension. And by adopting an umbrella yoke that spreads widely at the back, depth is created in the rear view as well, adding a three-dimensional presence.

Meanwhile, the pockets set at a diagonal naturally blend into the design around the waist area. Balanced with the relatively compact hem length, they create a light, agile silhouette that does not become overly heavy.

What stands out is its quiet sophistication expressed through color and silhouette, while carefully preserving the functional design details of a traditional trench coat. You can truly feel the appeal of HERMES during the Martin Margiela period—where practicality is linked to beauty.

This is a particularly recommended piece for those who would like to subtly incorporate modern elements into a classic look, or who want to naturally integrate items that evoke the brand’s history into their everyday wardrobe.

As styling, we recommend a refined look pairing a shirt with beautifully tailored trousers, or a softer ensemble combining a long skirt with beautiful drape and leather boots. By changing the look of the belt, you can enjoy an elegant, polished style that suits everyone, regardless of gender.

By all means, take this opportunity.