-SPECIAL- “JUNYA WATANABE COMME des GARÇONS MAN PINK”2005AW Victorian lace pleated asymmetric long shirt

“JUNYA WATANABE COMME des GARÇONS MAN PINK”2005AW Victorian lace pleated asymmetric long shirt

We are pleased to present a truly rare piece from JUNYA WATANABE, who has been redefining the very structure of menswear and the concept of ready-to-wear through uniquely devised pattern-making, building an unmistakably distinct identity within Comme des Garçons.

With soft white cotton as its foundation, delicate lace reminiscent of antique dress shirts and night dresses, painstakingly folded pintucks, and pleats that dramatically change expression as they flow toward the hem are assembled into a single continuous design—transforming the familiar form of a shirt into an intensely sculptural long silhouette.

The neckline is based on a small stand collar, its outline finished with lace featuring fine openwork patterns. On the front, multiple pintucks run vertically from the chest and are positioned to the left and right, creating a highly decorative design while forming precise vertical lines through the upper body.

Decorative covered buttons are used on the placket, harmonizing with the textures of the fabric and lace. Rather than making a bold statement with metal or large embellishments, the overall finish is elevated by layering the character of the materials themselves—an attention to subtle detail that is unmistakably JUNYA WATANABE.

And perhaps the most emblematic aspect of this piece lies in its construction from below the waist down to the hem. Lace is inserted along a gently curving switching line, and from there fine pleats radiate outward. This creates a distinctive volume that opens three-dimensionally in accordance with the wearer’s movements.

The pleats are not simply dropped in a single direction uniformly. Instead, they are placed with varying angles from panel to panel, so that from the front you perceive an orderly beauty, while from the side or obliquely, shadows and depth emerge. This clearly reflects Junya Watanabe’s approach to turning flat cloth into form through pattern and sewing.

Moreover, the hem is not finished horizontally like a typical shirt. It is tailored into an asymmetric line in which multiple points hang down long, and along its outline, several layers of lace—evoking open-knit and delicate embroidery—are stacked. As you walk, each component sways with a slight time lag, allowing you to enjoy expressions different from those seen in stillness.

Lace is also placed at the cuffs to correspond with the collar and hem, ensuring that decoration does not appear fragmented throughout. The design connects seamlessly as one motif—from the neckline to the sleeves, from the waist switch, and all the way to the hem. On the back, natural gathers are taken from the yoke, providing a softer sense of volume that differs from the intricate pintucks on the front.

In terms of materials, the main body uses 100% cotton, while the lace sections use 51% nylon and 49% cotton. By combining lace of different textures within a naturally textured cotton base, the item achieves rich contrast not only through woven appearance, transparency, and surface relief, but also through pleating—despite being composed entirely of white.

The period is also clearly indicated: the quality label remains with the notation “AD2005,” and the product number is UP-0002. Looking at Comme des Garçons’ coding system at the time, the leading “U” corresponds to JUNYA WATANABE MAN PINK, and the following “P” indicates autumn/winter 2005. With multiple elements matching, including the pink brand label, this is a piece with a solid provenance as an archive from 2005AW.

In particular, the very existence of this MAN PINK line is intriguing. As a derivative line of JUNYA WATANABE MAN, launched from Spring/Summer 2003, it played a role in reconstituting ideas born from menswear into a form for the female body. In this 2005 work from the early phase, starting from the shirt—the core form at the heart of men’s clothing—it boldly incorporates lace, pleats, gathers, and a long swaying hem, completing a garment that transcends a simple binary of masculine and feminine. This is where the piece’s great value lies.

Although the design initially gives a very romantic impression, in practice it is meticulously planned down to pattern switches, the direction of pleats, and the differences in volume between front and back. The beauty is achieved not merely by ornamentation, but through construction—this is the distinctive appeal of this exceptional piece.

From today’s perspective as well, it offers freedom that cannot be confined to a single category—long shirt, tunic, or short dress. While enjoying the garment’s presence in itself, it is a piece that you will especially want to have in your hands if you wish to incorporate it naturally into your personal style.

For styling, you can pair it with refined slacks and let the lace and pleats on the hem take center stage. You can also layer it with a long skirt to enjoy movement in different lengths, or match it with slim trousers and emphasize the sculptural form from the upper body down to the hem. It is also beautiful if you show the lace from beneath a tailored jacket or the inside of a long coat, bringing the look into an elegant, mode-leaning balance that does not rely solely on sweetness.

Even as an archive of approximately 20 years ago, it naturally connects with contemporary genderless styling. And you can enjoy the reconstituting philosophy that JUNYA WATANABE has long excelled at, in an exceptionally delicate form—namely, as a shirt. For all these reasons, it is an ideal piece to introduce as part of a special collection.

We would be delighted if you would consider this opportunity.