“tricot COMME des GARÇONS” Late 80’s checked wool blend cropped shawl collar jacket

“tricot COMME des GARÇONS” late 80’s checked wool-blend cropped shawl-collar jacket

Born from COMME des GARÇONS in 1981, tricot COMME des GARÇONS began by drawing from the knitwear domain and later expanded its expression to tailoring and even woven fabrics. Now, as its legacy has been passed from Rei Kawakubo to Junya Watanabe, we are pleased to introduce an exquisite piece that lightly disrupts the structure of a classic jacket—an exceptionally beautiful design.

Crafted in a wool-blend fabric that layers fine checks in black and charcoal gray, this piece is grounded in precise tailoring. Yet thanks to its softly rounded, flowing shawl collar and a cropped, neatly finished length, it lets you feel both classic elegance and a gentle sense of sculptural form at once.

First and foremost is the design at the neckline. Instead of the sharply angled lapels typical of tailored jackets, it features a shawl collar that continues from the back collar through to the front. As the fabric gently conforms to the body and softly folds back, it creates a natural expression—somehow simultaneously making it feel like a cardigan even though it is a jacket.

In particular, at the center of the front, the collar overlaps slightly and forms a three-dimensional, rippling effect. Rather than treating the collar itself as a strong decorative element, the variation is created by the way the fabric falls—allowing you to appreciate the fun of a design rooted in tricot COMME des GARÇONS’s distinctive materials and pattern.

And the fine check pattern, with black as the dominant color, is equally outstanding. Rather than pushing decorative impact to the forefront through a large-scale pattern, it develops depth: when you view it up close, the structure of the grid becomes crisp and clear. As a result, it offers ease of wear comparable to a solid-colored jacket, while adding a quiet change to your styling.

The length is set relatively short for a tailored jacket. With a moderate amount of ease left in the chest width, unlike a classic jacket that is strongly tapered at the waist, the balance here lets you enjoy the space created between you and the garment itself as part of the silhouette.

Even inside, it is fascinating. Instead of covering the entire piece with a heavy lining, it incorporates a cupro lining centered around the shoulder area. This helps refine the sleeve feel and overall wearing comfort while leaving the jacket itself feeling light. The contrast between the neatness of its exterior appearance and the light, functional construction inside is one of the charms of tricot from this era.

We judge the item to date from around 1987 to 1989. Taking into account the earlier tricot label type, the product code TJ-050110, the Japanese-language quality tag, and the fact that the same product code has been confirmed as belonging to the 1980s, the background of the late 1980s is the most consistent conclusion.

For styling, we recommend pairing it with voluminous slacks or a long skirt, as well as neat shirts or tops with a high neck—using the jacket’s short length and the soft line of the collar to your advantage. It works well both for looks that shift your center of gravity downward with wide bottoms and for classic, streamlined styling with tailored trousers. You can naturally bring in the distinctive balance changes of COMME des GARÇONS and settle into a calm, elegant finish.

Please take this opportunity.