-SPECIAL- “HERMÈS” 90’s Sun face sculptural pendant necklace

From its beginnings in a harness-maker’s workshop, HERMÈS has elevated the beauty of its materials and the artistry of its craftsmen into a modern guise. We are pleased to introduce a highly collectible piece that embodies the aesthetic of Le Soleil, HERMÈS’s annual theme of 1994—featuring the three-dimensional face of the sun.

The pendant top, crafted from substantial gold-toned metal, is sculpted so that an irregular, wave-like outline and radiant rays seem to capture the sun itself as if it were full of expression. Rather than a perfectly balanced geometric pattern, each ray subtly drifts and expands in a different direction, creating a natural sense of three-dimensionality characteristic of casting. From different viewing angles, it reveals rich interplay of light and shadow.

At the center, the eyes, the line of the nose, and the mouth reminiscent of a human face are rendered in three-dimensional relief, infusing the universal motif of the sun with vitality and individuality. Unlike a mere radial sun motif, it carries a faintly mythic yet approachable expression—so when worn at the chest, you can enjoy a presence more like carrying a small sculpture than wearing jewelry.

On the surface, smoothly finished areas coexist with textured unevenness that retains the casting’s natural fluctuations. Instead of reflecting the gold light uniformly, it alternates brightness and shadow. Even the plated finish reveals nuanced variations typical of vintage pieces, lending depth that differs from contemporary uniformity—an unmistakable richness of costume jewelry that has aged with time.

The chain features a mesh-style rope chain made of continuous fine granular links. While enhancing the pendant top’s three-dimensional sculpture, it also adds a delicate chain of light around the neck. Designed so the chain does not overly compete with the statement top, the overall piece comes together as one completed jewelry item. The contrast between the top’s weighty presence and the chain’s gentle movement is precisely what makes this item so beautiful.

On the reverse side of the pendant, a square gold-metal plate is set into a recessed area, bearing the engravings HERMÈS PARIS and BIJOUTERIE FANTAISIE. BIJOUTERIE FANTAISIE is French for “costume jewelry,” indicating a line where the Maison’s creativity is expressed through free-form materials and forms, distinct from fine jewelry made of precious metals. While the front showcases the bold sun motif, the back preserves design intent and product background in a refined manner through the brand name and product category engraved with care.

The clasp uses a cylindrical, screw-style barrel closure, opening and closing in a manner true to the era—by threading the chain through. Unlike modern lobster clasps or hooks, these hand-operated fittings lend the act of putting it on and taking it off an unmistakable vintage charm, with a sense of period apparent even in the smallest details. Including such specifications, it becomes clear that this is not simply a revival-style design, but a piece with the manufacturing context of its time.

As for the date, key clues include the dedicated plate engraved on the reverse side with HERMÈS PARIS and BIJOUTERIE FANTAISIE, the cast design that renders the sun’s face in three dimensions, and the screw-style barrel clasp commonly seen in costume jewelry from the 1980s through the 1990s. In addition, since the sun motif of this piece overlaps with the design of Le Soleil, which HERMÈS designated as its annual theme in 1994, it is best positioned as a product from the mid-1990s—around 1990 to 1998, particularly near 1994.

Rather than featuring a work that prominently displays the signature of a specific individual designer, it is likely to have been made in accordance with the Maison’s theme, created by the in-house accessories design team at HERMÈS in collaboration with the workshop. It is jewelry whose appeal lies in HERMÈS’s own visual language rather than any individual name. It also brings together universal elements such as the sun, mythology, nature, and metal sculpture—unified through French refinement and playful spirit—which gives it significant value.

This time, as befits the piece being introduced as part of the MOOD Special Collection, it is not merely an accessory to enjoy the brand logo. It is a special collectible piece in which the annual theme, the product category, the fitting structure from the time, and the expressive qualities achieved through casting are all interwoven into one. In a form distinct from HERMÈS bags or scarves, it allows you to feel the Maison’s narrative and dedication to form. For those seeking a vintage jewelry piece with a presence like no other, this is especially recommended.

For styling, it is especially beautiful to let the pendant be the focal point at the center of the chest when paired with simple shirts or dresses. If worn with a well-tailored jacket or long coat, the pendant’s three-dimensional sense of the sun adds quiet splendor to the outfit. And with a refined look using slacks, you can enjoy classic elegance with an HERMÈS-like, sculptural sense of modernity. It also pairs well with outfits incorporating silk scarves or high-quality leather accessories. This is a standout piece you can recommend to anyone—regardless of gender—who wants to add one bold motif to simple clothing.

Please consider this opportunity.