-SPECIAL- “Jean Paul GAULTIER FEMME” 2005-2011 Corset lace-up tailored zip jacket

From Jean Paul GAULTIER, who in 1976 founded a brand bearing his name and elevated tailoring, corporeality, gender boundaries, and corset-inspired historical adornment into contemporary fashion, we present an exquisite piece that crystallizes the brand’s aesthetics within a refined jacket.

Based on a classic black tailored jacket, this piece expresses formal construction and GAULTIER’s body-conscious ethos more strongly through features such as the front double-zip, back lace-up, and three-dimensional waist detailing.

This item is a Japan domestic genuine distribution piece under Jean Paul GAULTIER FEMME's Onward Kashiyama license. The tag bears Onward Kashiyama, a customer service number starting with 0120, the old JIS washing symbols, and the management code CA.0906, enabling a confident assessment as a piece from around 2005–2011. Notably, since Onward's domestic distribution ended in 2015, and the 2016-onward new JIS labeling is not present, this should be regarded as a domestic genuine line from that era rather than a current item.

What first catches the eye in the design is not a conventional button-front but the vertical double-zip running down the center of the jacket, which preserves a crisp lapel and shoulder line while lending an industrial, slightly punk tension to a classic blazer. The zipper uses a YKK slider, and comes with a fabric pull and metal eyelets, making it more than a functional closure; it becomes a detail that blurs the boundary between practicality and decoration—an area where Gaultier excels.

At the lower front, a panel-like transition that broadens horizontally is arranged, and curved lines flowing from the waist to the hem add depth and a sense of movement to an otherwise flat black jacket. While rendered in a single black color, the interplay of stitching and fabric layering creates shadows; from afar it appears minimalist, yet up close you can sense the meticulous density of the design.

On the back, the lace-up detail—this jacket’s greatest allure—is boldly applied, with the lacing that recalls a corset running along the spine, seamlessly anchoring GAULTIER’s iconic body expression within a tailored context. It is not mere decoration; it visually cinches the waist and adds tension and a hint of sensuality to the silhouette from behind, making the back of a classic jacket another focal point—an exceptional value unique to this piece.

The materials use 100% wool for the outer fabric and cupro for the lining, delivering the firm drape typical of wool and the smooth feel of cupro against the skin, offering not only design language but also craftsmanship suitable for daily wear. The size is labeled 40, and its sharp shoulder line and waist shaping create a flattering balance that beautifully enhances feminine lines; it is also highly compatible for those who, in a genderless styling, want to deliberately incorporate the body's curves into the design.

At Jean Paul GAULTIER, the corset has been reinterpreted not merely as a feminine ornament or as clothing to conceal the body, but as a garment to sculpt the body—a key code. This jacket embodies that philosophy without over-dramatizing it, integrating it into everyday tailoring, which is its appeal. Although it is a domestically licensed piece produced under Onward, its front zip, back lace-up, and curved paneling clearly speak to GAULTIER’s context, making it a truly worthwhile archive piece to explore within the MOOD Special Collection.

Styling-wise, pairing it with drapey wide-leg pants or a refined long skirt highlights the jacket’s structured waistline, creating a chic, poised impression. Alternatively, drape it over a simple dress or clean bottoms and wear the front zipper slightly open to subtly evoke Gaultier’s body-conscious aesthetic while giving everyday outfits a strong silhouette.

Please take this opportunity.