Designer's roots map
The town where you grew up, the school you studied at, and the culture you have been exposed to will help you understand the "quirks" that reside in your clothes
Introduction
Why do the same tailored garments look so different? The answer often lies in the designer's hometown (the atmosphere of the city), education (school or teacher), and cultural references (music, film, crafts, technology). This article explores the designer's major bases using these three layers as clues, gently unraveling the origins of the "quirks = codes" that appear in the clothes. Finally, it adds a small perspective on MOOD.
Three-layer frame for viewing
1) Geography: The climate, urban planning, and tempo of the city influence the color and sense of volume.
2) Education: The “language of lines” learned at school and in the studio will determine the silhouettes that will emerge later.
3) Cultural references: national costumes, contemporary art, film, the latest technology – the way you reference them defines your personality.
Tokyo - Aesthetics of "Black" and "Space"
The sense of white space fostered by postwar urban spaces is linked to gradations of black and the distance between fabric and the body. Kawakubo Rei founded her brand in 1969, and presented an aesthetic that alternated between abstinence and experimentation in Paris in 1981. Yamamoto Yohji, with his background in law and experience in tailoring, also articulated the freedom of "not clinging too closely to the body" in 1981. What emerged from this was a quiet strength, rather than a strong assertion.
Antwerp: The coexistence of rigorous draftsmanship and poetry
The Antwerp Six, who received meticulous drafting training from the Royal Academy of Fine Arts, built their precision of cutting on top of textile editing, poetry, and bold color. Their experiments were undisturbed, resulting in a tasteful deviation—the fascinating thing about this school is the order embedded within the garments.
Paris - The coexistence of haute couture and rebellion
Paris is a city that shares the language of strict craftsmanship while simultaneously embracing freedom of values. Martin Margiela studied in Antwerp and gained experience working at Jean Paul Gaultier's atelier in Paris, where he introduced the "visibility of the underside" and split toes in tabi shoes. Gaultier used the precision of couture to elevate gender expression and subculture, renewing the coexistence of craftsmanship and rebellion.
London - The strength of the concept and the transcendence of technology
In London, where immigrant culture and the critical thinking of art schools intersect, Saint Mary's and the RCA foster "ways of asking questions." Alexander McQueen combines theatricality with precision in his tailoring, while Hussein Chalayan experiments with the relationship between body, environment, and technology, as exemplified by his AW2000 transformative dresses. Here, "concept-driven design" determines the look of the clothes.
Milan - an intellectual centered on industry and materials
Milan is a city where industry and ateliers are closely intertwined. Giorgio Armani established a "dignified, unobtrusive" look with lighter interlinings and shoulder structures and neutral colors. This became the standard for soft tailoring. Prada, with its political perspective and theatrical sensibility, expanded the scope of aesthetics with nylon and "ugly chic." The combination of materials, industry, and knowledge became a Milanese tradition.
Specific examples of "habits"
-Handling of black: The black from Tokyo is expressed through gradations, creating depth through differences in texture.
- Shoulder lines and front: Antwerp's precise design ensures that the contours remain consistent even when the garment is loose.
-Expression of the reverse side: Paris has a base that elegantly visualizes seam allowances, toile, and traces of time.
- The poetry of function: London combines technology and utility with poetry.
・The persuasiveness of the material: Milan is all about the fabric. By tuning the fabric’s resilience and drape, they create a “quiet luxury.”
summary
The three layers of origin, education, and cultural references are gently reflected in the "lines, colors, and textures" of each designer. The subtle differences in appearance that we sense are not the result of chance, but the accumulation of carefully selected historical choices. When you look at the clothes with an understanding of their background, they reach your heart more deeply and quietly.
A Spoon of MOOD
At MOOD, we are conscious of selecting items not only based on their appearance, but also on their perspective and background, such as "which city the work was created in, what kind of education the person received, and what inspired them."
Antwerp's editing sense, Tokyo's margins, Paris's techniques, London's concepts, Milan's material knowledge. When each of these vocabulary overlaps in your wardrobe, your everyday outfits take on a slightly deeper level of refinement. I believe that knowing the background is not about becoming an "expert," but about preparing to wear clothes in your own words.
