-MOOD MILLÉSIMES- 90’s-00’s Handwoven derby shoes
MOOD
-MOOD MILLÉSIMES- 90’s-00’s Handwoven derby shoes
自古以來,於成熟的義大利皮鞋文化中,即使不以明確的品牌名稱為前鋒,也存在以材質的厚實、編織的精度與製法的震撼力自身來論述價值的鞋履工藝。現特別介紹這款讓人感受那份工匠背景的、厚實的皮鞋珍品。
採用寬幅皮革帶進行的大面積イントレチャート編織,包覆整個鞋面,設計不僅僅為裝飾的華麗,同時也豐富了皮革本身的陰影與表面起伏。與一般細緻的編織不同,每個編織眼都較大,因此手工的力量在視覺上更加明顯,雖然整體不過於規整,卻散發出具有義大利鞋風情的魅力。

輪廓以外開孔式德比鞋為基底,具備紐鞋的端正感,且因編織的表情而適度柔和剛硬感。鞋頭有適度的圓潤,不會過於尖銳,為足下帶來穩定的存在感,因此作為經典皮鞋的延伸也易於搭配;同時也能滿足那些認為普通素面鞋不足的人群的需求。

此外,從鞋翼周邊到鞋口、到後跟部位,並非編織鞋面,而是切換為光滑皮革,因此設計的強弱自然得到整合,整體不顯得過於奢華。以甲部吸引視線,而在跟部打造出安靜的面,無論從前後哪個角度看都具備協調,這樣的用心讓日常穿搭也能自然融合,達到恰到好處的平衡。

此外不可忽視的是,白色粗線縫所勾勒出的輪廓對比,對深色棕皮的光澤形成輕盈的對比,為厚重的作工帶來恰到好處的挺拔感。這種設計並非單純的加固,而是在視覺上突顯鞋子的立體感,也讓側線與鞋翼的形狀看起來更美麗,這也是它的獨特魅力。

此外,本件的重大附加價值不僅在於外觀的震撼力,更在於鞋子結構本身。外底的外露縫線與邊緣的張出感,讓人感受到與量產鞋不同的厚實與手工,讓人聯想到挪威式工法或類似的厚重手工縫製工法。編織鞋面承載著柔軟與表情豐富,支撐足部的底座則堅實構築,因此華麗與實用性在同一雙鞋中得到穩健的並存,成為這款鞋獨有的價值。

關於年代,自然認為大約是1990年代末至2000年代前半,原因是:寬鬆的圓頭平衡、以白色縫線強調的義大利鞋特有的設計代碼、與現代高度同質性不同的刻印字體所呈現的氛圍,以及在以量產效率為優先之前保留的手工工藝所遺留的震撼力。不要只以其中一項去判定,而是造型、材質、做工、經年變化的方向與這個年代的義大利鞋無縫重疊,因而可信性更高。

在造型方面,可以搭配具有垂感的長褲與雅致的毛呢褲;上半身層疊一件簡約的襯衫或輕盈的夾克,使鞋款腳下的編織自然成為主角;若與柔和的套裝或端正的外套搭配,便能在經典裝扮中增添工藝感的韻味,即使不過度裝飾,也能營造出深沉的印象。或者,只要與極簡的針織衫或上等的短夾克搭配,也能讓鞋子的陰影與結構美得到良好呈現,因此不分性別都能從鞋履上增添沉穩而強烈的氣場呢。
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