–SPECIAL– “tricot COMME des GARÇONS” 90’s belted sculptural tailored jacket

At tricot COMME des GARÇONS, which has refined its expression by questioning the established aesthetic created by Rei Kawakubo and incorporating experimentation into everyday wear, we are pleased to introduce a masterpiece that highlights structural beauty.

This piece features a quiet black tailoring base, but the moment your gaze shifts to the back, the unique philosophy of this item becomes clearly apparent. With a neat notch lapel, a minimal three-button front, and subdued horn-button-like textures neatly arranged on the front, the initial impression is minimalist. However, the fabric's movement, expanding from the flaps on both sides, adds depth beyond a flat jacket, creating a sense of dimensionality.

The most notable feature is the design on the back, where a belt extending from the side is fastened at the waist, creating tension that causes deep action pleats to rise in three dimensions. This structure is more than just clothing that follows the body; it creates a new space between the body and the fabric. While typical jackets treat the back as a surface to be smoothed, this piece makes the back itself the main sculptural element, with drape undulations visible even when stationary, and subtle movement of the fabric when walking, as if it breathes.

The fabric's outer layer is 100% wool, which gives subtle shading within the black, enhancing the beauty of its contours without relying on high gloss. The lining is 100% cupro, ensuring smooth wear. The surface design avoids excessive decoration, relying on weaving and tailoring precision, which accentuates the contrast between the calm front and the structural back. This balance reflects Junya Watanabe’s signature tension, softened into elegant tailoring, demonstrating a high level of craftsmanship.

Regarding its age, the authenticity is supported by the internal tag marked AD1998, which serves as a definitive reference point. The style number TJ-040010 aligns with tricot jackets, and the absence of long multilingual labels or QR codes seen in later models further confirms its period. Additionally, the consistency with the agency address at 5-11-5 Minami-Aoyama supports dating this piece to around 1998–1999, during Jun Watanabe’s era. The concept of the back belt and deep tucks, which recur in later Watanabe lines, links to military-inspired functional beauty and couture-like three-dimensional manipulation, making this an archive piece with a profound design philosophy beyond just being an old tricot jacket.

Despite its experimental nature, this piece’s appeal also lies in its grounded approach. The front remains neat, with collar opening and button placement designed for everyday wear, creating a quiet sense of discomfort for viewers and a sense of exclusive structural insight for the wearer. We believe that clothing which appears calm at first glance but reveals its philosophy upon reflection can quietly deepen one’s individuality in daily life.

For those who understand the context of fashion, this is not a loud statement piece but one that speaks to aesthetic differences through tailoring and structure. It is especially attractive for those who already own classic jackets and are looking for their next piece. It is also suitable for anyone, regardless of gender, who values the beauty of straight lines and negative space as core elements of style.

Styling options include pairing with relaxed trousers or straight-cut trousers to highlight the clean silhouette, or combining with long skirts or voluminous bottoms to emphasize the back structure, naturally enjoying the dialogue between body and fabric characteristic of Junya Watanabe. Wearing simple shirts or T-shirts as inner layers will also accentuate the calm front and sculptural back, creating a balanced look that incorporates sophisticated craftsmanship into everyday wear.

Don’t miss this opportunity.