'-SPECIAL- "Y's" 15AW Cape design panel oversized stand collar coat

We would like to introduce you to some special items from Y's, the first brand created by Yohji Yamamoto in 1972, which is based on the concept of women wearing men's clothes.

This masterpiece is a trench coat from Y's Autumn/Winter 2015 collection that absorbs light like rain-soaked cobblestones.

First of all, in terms of its age, the brand label on the neck and the stripped-down design that "makes the structure itself the design" mesh with the redefinition of everyday wear that Y's excelled at in the mid-2010s. Rather than making a statement with shine or metal fittings, the piece creates a presence with a black surface and a draped feel, and the "cape-like yoke" layered on top amplifies the shadows. This style is not a return to classics, but rather a reflection of the era in which the grammar of functional clothing is poetically broken down within modern minimalism.

Breaking down the design carefully, the core lies in the "vertical axis" of the neat stand collar. The front, with evenly spaced buttons rather than a hidden placket, draws the eye straight down, preventing it from looking elongated even in the long length and slimming the wearer's silhouette. The collar is designed to stand up, changing its appearance from being quiet when laid flat to blocking the wind when raised, adding practical value to the ability to change the mood just by looking at the neck.

The added value of this piece is the cape-like panel that overlaps the front. A single piece of fabric flows from the shoulders, slowly sinking at the chest, and the depth of the drape changes with the sway of your feet, so even though it's solid black, it doesn't lose its volume. What's more, the buttons on the edges of the panels allow you to control the way the front looks depending on how you fasten them, rather than just letting them hang loose, which gives you the fun of "changing the way you layer it depending on the day," even with the same coat. While evoking the yokes derived from rain gear and trench coats, it doesn't resort to excessive decoration, as is typical of Y's, and instead creates drama with just the overlapping of fabrics, which is a strong point.

The back is free of decoration, focusing on the central line and volume, creating a contrast with the layered feel in the front, and as it falls beautifully to the back when worn, the silhouette seen from the side looks like a "thin sculpture." The cuffs also have visible strap-like details, and are designed so that the fit around the arms can be adjusted by tightening them, so it can be said that the design keeps the airy feel of the long length while preventing sloppy movement.

Looking at the AW 2015 season, it makes perfect sense that the outerwear itself contains layers, a time when layering is more common. The front yoke creates a three-dimensional shadow, compensating for body heat and visual density at the same time, without the need for a thick inner layer, giving the winter black a strength that doesn't end up being just a basic look.

In terms of styling, pairing wide pants with volume for the bottoms and creating a vertical drape will naturally highlight Yohji's style, while another idea is to pair a minimalist shirt or cut-and-sew with slim slacks, making the cape panel of the coat the focal point and accentuating the shadows, which is also beautiful. Adding sharp leather shoes to the feet will tighten the center of gravity and enhance the genderless finish.

Please take this opportunity.