–SPECIAL– “JUNYA WATANABE” 06AW Sculptural twisted-collar wool long coat

“JUNYA WATANABE” 06AW Sculptural twisted-collar wool long coat

From JUNYA WATANABE, who launched the line bearing his own name in 1992 and has built a distinct design language that re-edits existing garments by reworking them from the very pattern and structure itself—while inheriting the philosophy of COMME des GARÇONS—we present a highly rare piece from the 2006 autumn-winter season that transforms a classic long coat into an entirely different expression through a sculptural, three-dimensional collar structure.

Centered on a refined long silhouette in deep black wool, it features a collar that draws large, gently flowing curves at the front. On the back, the collar rises as if folded over itself, creating a sculptural, three-dimensional presence around the neckline and adding JUNYA WATANABE’s signature constructivist sensibility to the coat’s outline.

What first captures the eye is the collar design, which presents completely different expressions front and back. Seen from the front, the rounded, substantial collar softly wraps the area around the shoulders. When viewed from behind, the fabric folds inward and rises high, evolving into a complex three-dimensional look reminiscent of layered petals.

This collar is not merely an added decorative detail; by deforming the coat’s own collar structure itself, it is elevated into the design. It is a particularly easy and rewarding way to appreciate JUNYA WATANABE’s approach to garment-making—creating three-dimensional form on the body from what might otherwise be flat patterns.

The body is tailored into a long silhouette that gradually widens from the shoulders to the hem. While the upper body is kept neatly proportioned, the generous volume from below the waist means that with each step, the hem moves quietly, creating rich motion even within an all-black palette.

At the front, four buttons are arranged vertically, and simple welt pockets are placed on the left and right. With the collar’s form as the main focus and no excess information added to the front body, the entire coat is balanced with remarkable composure.

Furthermore, at the back there is a long cut panel running from the center toward the hem, forming a line that naturally spreads to both sides. This creates a beautiful volume from the rear that differs from the calm silhouette seen from the front. In particular, the contrast between the straight line that continues from the center of the back to the neckline, and the collar that folds up and over in three dimensions beyond that, is exceptionally striking—making this a coat whose design intent is clearly conceived all the way to the back.

The fabric is woven from 90% wool and 10% nylon. Along with the soft, napped feel characteristic of wool, it adds an appropriate amount of firmness to maintain the sculptural form. For the collar’s intricate folds and the long A-line to come together beautifully, the thickness and rebound of the fabric itself are essential. Beyond just the pattern, the fact that the coat completes its form down to the nature of the material is a major added value of this piece.

Regarding the era, it can be confirmed as made in 2006: AD2006 and the style number JR-C053 are listed on the quality label, along with the name JUNYA WATANABE COMME des GARÇONS of that time, the statement from Comme des Garçons Co., Ltd., and specifications indicating Japan. As such, it is positioned as a collection piece from the 2006 autumn-winter season.

In the 2006 autumn-winter season, JUNYA WATANABE strongly emphasized an approach in which existing garments—centered on military wear—are dismantled and then reconstructed into different formats such as trench coats, parkas, and tailcoats. This work clearly reflects that era’s JUNYA WATANABE: a distinctive attitude of reinterpreting familiar clothing from the perspective of structure itself.

In particular, this individual piece does not directly quote military-like details. Instead, it builds on a more universal black long-coat foundation while adding bold three-dimensional manipulation to the most classic element of all—the collar. That is precisely why it appeals as a piece that balances both seasonality and everyday wear to a high degree.

With the sculptural character typical of an archive piece, it also stands as an exceptionally refined black coat when viewed from the front. This is especially recommended for those who wish to incorporate JUNYA WATANABE’s experimental spirit naturally into everyday dressing. It is an item you will want to hold if you are seeking a design that steps a little beyond the quiet stillness.

For styling, you can pair the coat with a shirt or a high-neck top and slacks, taking full advantage of the coat’s long, vertical silhouette. You can also create added volume at the hem by combining it with long skirts or wide trousers, bringing it down into a constructed balance that is distinctly JUNYA WATANABE. For footwear, pairing it with leather shoes or long boots will highlight the collar’s form while allowing the overall look to be elegantly styled.

From a distance, it reads as a refined long coat; up close, it offers the dual appeal of enjoying complex patternwork. The particular value of this piece is that clear design intent is present even from the rear.

This is a special archive piece that symbolizes the 2006 autumn-winter season—one that brings to life JUNYA WATANABE’s philosophy of reconstructing garments, not by relying on mere eccentricity, but by achieving an exceptionally beautiful result within the everyday form of a long coat.

Please, take this opportunity.