–SPECIAL– “JUNYA WATANABE” 06AW Sculptural twisted-collar wool long coat

“JUNYA WATANABE” 06AW Sculptural twisted-collar wool long coat

From JUNYA WATANABE, who launched a line bearing his own name in 1992 and has built a distinct design approach—embracing COMME des GARÇONS’ philosophy while re-editing existing garments by reworking them from the very pattern and structure itself—we present a truly rare treasure from the 2006 Autumn/Winter season: a classic long coat transformed into an entirely different expression through a sculptural collar structure.

Centered on a refined long silhouette crafted from deep black wool, the front features a collar that draws gentle, sweeping curves. On the back, the collar rises by being folded over itself, creating an almost sculptural sense of volume around the neck—adding the unmistakable constructability of JUNYA WATANABE to the outline of a classic coat.

What first captures your attention is the collar design, which presents completely different expressions from front to back. Viewed from the front, the rounded, oversized collar gently wraps the shoulder area, softening the look. When seen from behind, the fabric is folded inward and rises high, transforming into a complex three-dimensional feel reminiscent of layered petals.

This collar is not an ornament simply added to the coat. By deforming the coat’s original collar structure itself, it is elevated into the design language of the garment. It is also a very easy way to appreciate JUNYA WATANABE’s approach to garment-making—creating three-dimensional form on the body starting from a pattern.

The body is tailored into a long silhouette that gradually flares from the shoulders toward the hem. While the upper body is kept neatly fitted for a clean finish, a generous amount of volume is taken from below the waist, so that as you walk, the hem sways quietly. Even in an all-black palette, movement and richness are created.

On the front, four buttons are arranged vertically, and simple welt pockets are placed on both sides. With the collar’s shaping left as the star, the bodice remains free of unnecessary details, resulting in a very balanced, refined look across the entire coat.

Furthermore, on the back there is a long seam that runs from the center toward the hem, forming a line that naturally spreads outward to the left and right. This creates a beautiful volume from the rear—distinct from the calm silhouette seen from the front. In particular, the contrast between the straight lines that continue from the center of the back toward the neckline and the collar that folds over itself three-dimensionally beyond that point is exceptionally striking. It is, indeed, a coat with design intentions clearly carried through even at the back.

The fabric is composed of 90% wool and 10% nylon. The wool’s soft, brushed texture is paired with an appropriate amount of body and resilience to preserve the coat’s three-dimensional form. To ensure the collar’s intricate folds and the long A-line proportions come out beautifully, the thickness and rebound of the fabric itself are essential. The coat’s major added value lies in the fact that the shaping is completed not only through the pattern, but also by taking the fabric’s characteristics into account.

As for the year, the coat can be confirmed as made in 2006 based on the AD2006 listed in the quality label, the style number JR-C053, the JUNYA WATANABE COMME des GARÇONS branding from that period, the listing as COMME des GARÇONS Co., Ltd., and the Japan-made specifications.

For JUNYA WATANABE in the 2006 Autumn/Winter season, it was a period strongly marked by an approach of taking existing garments—primarily military wear—disassembling them and reconstructing them into different formats such as trench coats, parkas, and tailcoats. In this piece as well, you can clearly feel that era’s JUNYA WATANABE attitude: reinterpreting familiar clothing from the standpoint of its structure.

Among them, this particular garment is especially appealing because rather than directly quoting military-style details, it is built on the more universal base of a black long coat, and then introduces bold three-dimensional sculpting to the most classic element of all—the collar. This gives it both seasonality and everyday wearability at a very high level.

While it retains the sculptural quality unique to an archive piece, it still works as an exceptionally refined black coat when viewed from the front. It is therefore especially recommended for those who want to naturally incorporate JUNYA WATANABE’s experimental spirit into everyday styling. It is a piece you will want to pick up if you seek a design that steps beyond the ordinary, even within a quiet presence.

For styling, pair a shirt or a high-neck top with slacks, and of course you can fully enjoy the coat’s long, vertical silhouette. It also pairs beautifully with long skirts or wide trousers, adding even more volume at the hem to translate into a constructed, balanced look characteristic of JUNYA WATANABE. At the feet, styling with leather shoes or long boots will help highlight the collar’s sculptural form while bringing the overall look together elegantly.

From a distance, it reads as a refined long coat, while up close it offers a duality that lets you enjoy complex patternwork. Especially because there is a clear design intent even in the rear view, this piece has value that is unique to it.

It is a special archive piece that symbolizes the 2006 Autumn/Winter season—where JUNYA WATANABE’s philosophy of reconstructing garments comes together beautifully, not by relying on mere eccentricity, but within the form of a truly everyday long coat.

We invite you to take this opportunity.