YVES SAINT LAURENT 90s Double-breasted Wool Overcoat

Yves Saint Laurent is a brand that has placed the allure and neatness of the maison on the same line, giving an intellectual shadow to its outfits. Among them, diffusion hommes was positioned to bring Saint Laurent’s atmosphere into everyday life in line with the department store culture of the time, and its charm lies in its design that captivates through contours without excessive decoration. Today, we introduce a highly complete, elegant tailoring masterpiece that includes this background.

This is a rare piece that strongly reflects the diffusion hommes style of the 1990s.

The outer fabric is described as 100% wool heavy outer material, which prevents the black surface from sinking and maintains depth, giving a sense of refined elegance with a slight sheen when it catches the light. The front is double-breasted, and the overlap of the placket creates a core at the chest, making the posture look well-aligned just by wearing it.

The lapel has a deep notch and draws a sharp line downward toward the chest, maintaining a classic yet somewhat mode-like tension. The shoulders appear broad, giving a sharp impression of the upper body. The length is long, emphasizing vertical lines toward the hem, naturally creating a beautiful overall proportion. The flap pockets visually create a quiet division within the surface, and the lining, made of a blend of cupro and polyester, is designed for both smoothness and strength, making the act of putting on and taking off look smart.

Regarding the era, the decisive point is the inclusion of the name diffusion hommes on the brand tag, a term used in the Japanese market in the 1990s as a popular line, which disappeared after the 2000s along with its organization. Additionally, the manufacturer is clearly stated as Onward Kashiyama, and as a licensed Japanese product, it aligns with objective information, indicating it was produced during the peak period of department store licenses at that time. Furthermore, the proportions created by the deeply cut lapel, long length, and double overlap are consistent with men's classics from the early to mid-1990s, influenced by the 1980s trend, with both information and form pointing in the same direction, making the range around 1990 to 1999 the most natural.

The added value unique to this piece lies in Onward Kashiyama's solid tailoring, which makes Saint Laurent's mode contours suitable for everyday wear. While handling a thick, 100% wool fabric with a long length, the design of the placket and shoulders prevents it from losing shape, and the blue frame tag of diffusion hommes, which was a formality of department stores at the time, elevates it beyond just a black coat. Unlike the later Saint Laurent, which tends to be slim, the relaxed masculinity functions as a perfect oversized fit with today's sensibilities, making it a masterpiece that connects the values of the era directly to current styling.

In daily life, it can be relied on on days when you want to tighten your outfit as an outerwear for commuting, and it also naturally blends in during quiet, elegant scenes like dining out or watching a play at night. Even with a large amount of black, the lines of the lapel and the overlapping double create expressions, so you can achieve a high level of completeness without increasing the coordination, which is pleasing.

Styling-wise, pairing a minimal shirt with neat slacks and finishing the look with leather shoes naturally creates the intelligent tension characteristic of Saint Laurent. Another idea is to combine a lightweight top with flowing pants to create vertical lines, which, along with the coat's length and lapel shadows, work in a mode-inspired way, naturally highlighting the atmosphere of diffusion hommes.

Take this opportunity.