A generational change in pants
--From the resurgence of double pleats to high waists and hem width (90s to present)
Introduction
Over the past decade or so, pants have fluctuated between the dichotomy of "skinny" and "wide." Rather than questioning which is correct, it makes sense to see it as a gradual shift in the shape that is "just right" to suit the body sense and lifestyle of the times.
This article will trace the trends since the 1990s, and explain in as simple terms as possible how elements such as rise, hem width, length, and materials have been updated, without focusing too much on pleats (tucks).
The 90s: A Straight Line to Neutrality
The 90s saw a move away from the exaggeration of the 80s, with a more linear and flat look becoming more widespread.
To match the minimalist tailoring, straight pants with "few quirks" became mainstream. Pleats remained, but they were not the main focus. The fabrics mainly consisted of worsted trousers, with a rise that was "neither too high nor too low" and a hem width that was not too extreme, and a neutral balance was preferred.
2000s: Experimenting with slimmer cuts and shorter lengths
In the early 2000s, pants also became increasingly slimmer along with slim-fitting suits.
Low rise, narrow hem, and neat creases create a straight look. From the middle of the period onwards, experiments with shorter lengths became more common, and cropped styles that showed the ankles became the norm. This was a period when the idea of increasing the length to create a "light" look became widespread, even if the hem itself remained narrow.
2010s: Restoring margins and reviewing specifications
From the mid-2010s onwards, as tops began to get a little bigger and longer, pants also began to have more room to fit.
Designs with more room in the hips and thighs became more common, and pleats were reevaluated. However, it's not as simple as "pleats = trend"; the truth is that pleats were functional in ensuring range of motion and a relaxed fit, and suited modern balance. In terms of materials, fabrics with "texture" such as flannel and twill became popular, and compared to the straight lines of the 2000s, looks with more shadows began to appear.
2020s: Wides become "permanent lanes"
With people spending more time at home and changes in transportation methods, people are looking for more comfort in their pants.
As a result, wide silhouettes and high waists (designed to sit at the natural waist) are no longer just a passing trend but have become established as an option. However, that doesn't mean that slim silhouettes have disappeared. Slim lines can also be made to look "modern" by selecting the right hem length, material, and shoes. You could say that today, a gradation of styles from tight to wide coexist.
Rise: Where is your center of gravity?
The term "high waist" has a strong connotation, but in practice it is a difference in where the pelvis is supported.
The higher the rise, the more stable the belt position will be, making it easier to tuck in your top.
On the other hand, a shallower rise chair aims to visually lengthen the legs, but it can also affect the range of motion of the hips and the comfort of sitting. The current reevaluation of rise is driven not only by appearance, but also by comfort and a stable center of gravity.
Hem width and length: Designed for movement and weight
The width of the hem determines how the fabric sways when you walk and how heavy it appears. The wider the hem, the more the fabric sways, giving it a more expressive look .
The length can make a big difference in the impression even if the hem width is the same. A shorter length makes it look lighter, while a longer length lowers the center of gravity and makes it look more mature.
Furthermore, adding a cuff (fold) adds a weight to the hem, making it easier for the fabric to fall straight. Nowadays, both "no cuff for a lighter look" and "creating a center of gravity with a cuff" are naturally chosen.
Pleats (tucks): function, not design
The pleats are not decorative but are folds for range of motion.
Inward pleats (forward pleats) tend to look slightly sharper, while outward pleats (reverse pleats) tend to give more room around the waist. The reason why two pleats are gaining attention is that with today's larger outerwear (coats and jackets), the lower body can more easily support the fabric.
Rather than making a strong statement, it is more appropriate to understand it as a choice made as a means to smooth out the overall silhouette.
Material and color: The expression of the surface conveys the atmosphere of the times
Combed wool gabardine has a flat surface and prominent lines, so it goes well with slim to straight cuts.
Flannel and herringbone fabrics tend to create shadows due to the raised texture, which complements the swaying feel of wide or high-waisted garments.
In terms of color, charcoal tightens the contours, while medium to light gray creates a soft atmosphere. Navy creates a clean feeling, while black creates a strong contrast. In every era, impressions have been created by the combination of shape and material.
Background and Implications: Why does the "switch" occur?
Pant trends have been linked not only to tops and shoes, but also to changes in work dress codes, transportation, climate, and values.
For example, the slim silhouettes of the 2000s evoked a feeling of "speed and straight lines," while today's loose silhouettes reflect "space and comfort."
In both cases, it is easier to understand if you think of the social atmosphere as affecting the "center of gravity of the body," resulting in changes in the shape of pants.
Summary: An era of wide choice
Nowadays, slim and wide pants are available side by side, and it's easy to find your perfect fit by adjusting the rise, hem, length, and whether or not you have cuffs. There's no right or wrong answer when it comes to whether or not to have pleats. The same pants can look completely different depending on where you place the center of gravity, how much you want the fabric to sway, and what kind of surface you choose.
I believe that the most reliable indicator of whether it's a masterpiece from the past or your current daily life is whether it's natural to your body and lifestyle at the time.
A Spoonful of MOOD
At MOOD, we strive to offer a wide range of styles, from slim to wide, mid to high rise.
We are more conscious of the comfort of the center of gravity and the margins than of making a strong statement. Even with the same color and material, the impression can be softened by changing the rise and hem design.
Both the pop-up and online store will be presented in a way that allows you to see the differences at a glance, and will allow you to effortlessly choose the perfect pair to match your everyday tops and shoes. The standard that MOOD values now is that each pair should be comfortable to wear for a long time.
