Bags that continue to speak even as they change shape — GUCCI's iconic icons and their evolution Part 3
It is often the bags, not the clothes, that most eloquently express the essence of a fashion house.
GUCCI is no exception, and throughout its history, numerous bags have been born as "symbols" that represent the brand's philosophy, aesthetic sense, and the atmosphere of the times, and have continued to evolve.
This article focuses on three iconic bags: Jackie, Dionysus, and Horsebit, exploring what each represents and how they have been reinterpreted. This marks the beginning of a journey to explore what GUCCI's "icons" are.
Jackie 1961 — The symbolism of the bag that bears its name
Originally called the "Constella," the bag was renamed the "Jackie" in the early 1970s after being frequently worn by Jackie Kennedy.
This bag, characterized by its soft half-moon shape and piston-shaped metal fittings, is known as the epitome of "unpretentious elegance."
The essence of this bag is not eccentricity, but rather a quiet confidence in one's belief in style, a reflection of the understated yet strong-willed attitude that Jackie Kennedy displayed.
"Rebirth" by Michele
In 2020, Alessandro Michele reimagined the bag under the name "Jackie 1961," expanding the range of materials available, including suede, canvas, and the GG pattern, while updating the size and metal details.
By transcending gender boundaries and having male models and non-binary people carry the bag, Jackie has been elevated from a "symbol of femininity" to an "icon of self-expression."
"Jackie is no longer just a memory of the former First Lady, but has become a new tradition for Gucci."
— Vogue interview
Dionysus — The intersection of classical and mythical
Dionysus, which appeared in Michele's first collection in 2015, has become a new symbol for GUCCI.
This bag, named after Dionysus, the Greek god of wine, symbolizes duality: joy and destruction, taboo and liberation, holiness and wildness. The tiger head clasp in the center is a symbol that visualizes this ambiguous power.
The square-shaped body with a flap and GG Supreme canvas lining it is free of decorative elements, yet full of decorative spirit. It can be said that this design embodies GUCCI's "poison hidden within classic design."
Dionysus = Michele himself?
Some fashion journalism has even said that "Dionysus" is a projection of Michele himself (BoF, 2016). Classical and intellectual, yet possessing a free-spirited fantasy and religious faith. By bringing mythology into the GUCCI context, the bag began to function as a "story" rather than a "material object."
"Dionysus was a manifesto in the form of a bag"
— Business of Fashion, 2016
Horsebit 1955 — A refrain that connects the Gucci family's origins to the future
The Horsebit 1955 was the first bag to feature the horse harness motif, which had been used since the late 1940s, on the front. The bag's greatest features are its classic structured shape and the metal horsebit hardware on the front.
This metal fitting is not merely decorative, but represents the inheritance of the brand's "lineage of saddlery" since its founding.
Reinterpretation of the Michele era
The Horsebit 1955, which was reissued in 2019, faithfully follows the codes of the past while adding Michele's signature playfulness to the silhouette and material selection, becoming a symbol of "reediting wrapped in tradition."
In recent years, the bag has been released in multiple formats, including mini, shoulder, and top handle, successfully remaining true to the brand's DNA while meeting the diverse styling needs of today.
"Horsebit is a time capsule that helps us remember where the Gucci brand came from."
— Who What Wear UK, 2023
"A bag is a symbol" - GUCCI's design language of memory and renewal
Jackie carries the "memories" of social icons,
Dionysus expands the meaning through mythological stories,
Horsebit connects the brand's origins with its future.
These are not simply "possessions," but symbolic devices that can reflect the owner's thoughts, gender sensibilities, and even historical awareness.
Through these icons, GUCCI shows us that fashion is a language and bags are part of that vocabulary.
Conclusion — Iconic succession is about "repeatedly asking questions"
GUCCI bags change shape with the times, but at their core lies a question.
The questions are, "Why do I have this?" and "Who does this symbolize?"
That is why an icon is not something that is complete, but something that has room for reinterpretation.
Just as Jackie transcends gender to suit the times, Dionysus becomes a modern myth, and Horsebit gives a future to classic music.
A GUCCI bag is a place where memories and questions intersect.
