"Leather Vocabulary"
Nappa/Suede/Patent Leather: Why brands choose them and the best solutions for jackets and accessories
Introduction
Although they're all called "leather," nappa, suede, and patent leather have very different textures, shines, and the meanings that brands attach to them. Here, we'll explain the basics of each material, how luxury brands use them, and the "sweet spot" for jackets and accessories.
Nappa leather—a supple surface that conforms to the body
What is Nappa?
Nappa leather is an extremely smooth leather made from the fine-grained surface (full grain) of sheep, calf, goat, and other hides, which is softly tanned with chrome and other tanning agents. Originally a name for a technique developed in Napa Valley, California, the term is now used as a general term for "soft, moist, high-quality smooth leather."
Surface processing is often kept to a minimum, and a major feature of this product is that it is finished while retaining its natural texture and appearance.
Why brands choose Nappa
The reason why luxury brands love nappa is quite simple.
- Incredibly soft to the touch
- Flexible and drapeable
- And yet it has the toughness that comes from full grain.
Nappa is frequently used not only for bags, gloves and small leather goods, but also for pieces that are meant to "move like fabric," such as leather dresses and shirts on the runway.
The perfect solution for jackets and accessories
jacket
- It is suitable for items that you want to feel comfortable in from the moment you put them on, such as riders and shirt jackets that fit your body well, or coats that make use of drape.
- Nappa is a type of fabric that develops fine wrinkles and shadows the more you wear it, so it is suitable for people who want to enjoy the changes that occur over time.
Small items (bags, wallets, gloves, etc.)
- If you choose nappa for a wallet that you touch every day or a mini bag that you carry with your bare hands, you will feel a whole different sense of satisfaction when you touch it.
- On the other hand, due to its natural finish, it is somewhat sensitive to scratches and water, so careful handling and regular care are required.
Suede—matte depth that absorbs light
What is suede?
Suede is leather with a brushed backside (inside). It is made from the inner layer of split leather or the brushed backside of regular leather, creating a soft, brushed appearance.
Its fuzzy surface does not reflect light strongly, giving it a soft, matte appearance.
Why brands choose suede
Suede is chosen because it is easy to strike a balance between being elegant and not too formal.
- The brushed texture absorbs light, making the color appear deeper.
- The matte texture softens the overall tone of your styling.
- It creates a more "friendly" impression than smooth leather.
For this reason, it is often used with items such as loafers, boots, and bomber jackets that are "neat but still have a bit of a casual feel."
The perfect solution for jackets and accessories
jacket
- Suede jackets are excellent outerwear because they don't pick up too much light and blend in with the space.
- Camel and dark brown in particular go well with both denim and slacks, gently blurring the line between on and off-duty.
Accessories (bags, shoes, belts, etc.)
- Suede shoes and belts can add a little tension to a formal outfit.
- However, since it is vulnerable to water and dirt, it is safe to choose one assuming that you will take care of it with routine care such as using waterproof spray and brushing.
Patent leather (enamel) — a "presence" that reflects light
What is a patent?
Patent leather is a type of leather that has been given a glossy coating, giving it a strong, mirror-like shine and a surface that is virtually water-repellent. Nowadays, it is common to apply a top coat of resin such as polyurethane or acrylic.
It became popular in Europe and America in the 19th century as a coating technique for linseed oil-based varnish was developed, and became established as a formal shoe or dress-up accessory.
Why brands choose patents
The situation in which patents are chosen is very clear: when you want to attract attention.
- A strong shine gives an instant dressy and glamorous look
- Surface coating makes it resistant to water and dirt (note: there are other precautions to take, such as color transfer)
- Even with a simple design, the material alone creates a strong presence.
For this reason, it is often used on items such as pumps, clutch bags, belts, and raincoat-style trench coats, which are pieces that you want to use to raise the tone of your outfit with just one piece.
The perfect solution for jackets and accessories
Jackets/Coats
- Just throw on a patent leather trench coat or coat and you'll have a strong, fashionable look.
- However, since the larger the surface area, the more assertive it is, so it will be easier to balance it out if you keep the items underneath as simple as possible.
Accessories (shoes/bags, etc.)
- Patent pumps and small bags are excellent switches to tune up your entire outfit to make it a little more glamorous.
- On the other hand, light-colored patent leather is prone to color transfer and yellowing, so care should be taken to store it separately and not in close contact with other leathers.
How to use the three types of leather
Finally, organize your intuitive guidelines.
-
When you want to prioritize suppleness that is close to your skin
→ Nappa. For jackets, gloves, and other accessories that you touch every day. -
When you want to create a soft, deep tone for the entire styling
→ Suede. Add a matte texture to your outerwear or shoes. -
When you want a "sign" that changes the atmosphere
→ Patent leather. Keep the surface area low and use it as an accessory or outer layer to reflect light.
Even if it's the same black leather, nappa has a "soft surface," suede has a "deep shadow," and patent leather has a "strong light." The brand carefully selects these three depending on the atmosphere and scene they want to convey with each collection.
A Spoonful of MOOD
At MOOD, we don't see leather as a "luxury material," but as a tool for regulating light and temperature.
- This piece is perfect for everyday wear, showcasing the natural flexibility of nappa.
- On days when you want to create a sense of space and spaciousness, try the quiet matte feel of suede.
- For evening wear or special occasions, add a touch of glamour to the air with a drop of patent.
Choosing which leather to wear is more like choosing the light you want to wear it in, rather than flashiness. If you reassess your wardrobe from that perspective, the meaning of your leather items will likely change slightly.
