Court blueprint
An easy explanation of Chester, Raglan, and Double-Breasted jackets from the perspective of their structure
Introduction
A coat is the most architectural piece in your wardrobe. The weight of the fabric, the angle of the shoulders, the shape of the lapels, the position of the buttons—these subtle differences in design can subtly change the overall look.
Here we will organize the three styles of Chester, Raglan, and Double-Breasted jackets based on their origins and the brand's aesthetic. We will keep difficult technical terms to a minimum and provide tips on how to choose and wear them.
Chesterfield Coat - Elegance in Straight Lines
It originated as a British men's suit in the 19th century. It was developed as formal outerwear for going to clubs or evening parties, and is characterized by notched lapels, a narrow front, and a straight silhouette. The shoulders are slightly structured, the gorge (the point where the top and bottom collars meet) is medium to slightly high, and the vertical line from the chest to the hemline makes you appear taller.
Giorgio Armani and Burberry , for example, have refined this style for the modern era. Armani uses a thin core to create a "dignified look in its lightness," and the shoulder straps are not too strong, creating an appealing drape that gently ripples with each step. Burberry maintains the structure of tailoring while adding functionality for urban life with gabardine and cashmere. If you're leaning towards a more minimalist style, the resolution of The Row and Jil Sander is also comfortable.
As a guideline for choosing a jacket, the shoulders should fit snugly against your body frame, and the lapel width should be "slightly narrow to medium" compared to the width of your face. Whether the front is one-button or hidden, placing the first button near your solar plexus will make your legs appear longer. Black, charcoal, and navy are all-purpose colors, but dark brown also looks great in autumn and winter, creating a nice contrast.
Raglan Coat: Mobility in Space
Raglan sleeves are a design in which the shoulder line is not cut at the armhole, but instead has a diagonal seam running from the collar. Developed from the mobility of military coats, the result is a gentle, body-hugging feel and smooth curves. Traditionally, they have been paired well with Balmacaan (sten-collar) jackets, and are trusted as a practical item that is resistant to wind and rain.
In terms of the brand, Hermès ' cashmere raglan has a beautiful flowing effect, with the seams disappearing into the background. Lemaire carefully designs breathable space with rounded sleeves and large armholes. Maison Margiela applies a deconstruction and reconstruction approach to raglan, softly blurring the boundary between the wearer's body and the clothing. The lineage of Mackintosh and Aquascutum , the fathers of British rainwear, still lives on today with their approach of layering classic styles on water-repellent materials.
When choosing, the key is the slope of the shoulders (drop) and the roominess of the armholes. If the shoulders are too dropped, it will look sloppy, so ideally there should be a gentle slope from the neck to the shoulders when viewed from behind. Choosing a slightly longer length will make the curves of the raglan more prominent and make your walking movements look more elegant.
Double-breasted - a balance of dignity and embracing
Double-breasted jackets, with two rows of buttons at the front, are descended from naval peacoats and military overcoats. The deep overlap provides excellent protection from the cold and visually creates a strong, firm look around the chest. Peak lapels are common, with a sharply angled V-zone. The classic button arrangement is 6x2, but modern variations such as 4x2 and 6x1 are also seen.
Saint Laurent , Balenciaga , and Dior (especially Kim Jones in the men's collection) have translated this "power structure" into fashion. Saint Laurent keeps the shoulders taut while narrowing the body, creating a "quiet tension" with a black double-breasted jacket. Balenciaga, on the other hand, exaggerates the volume, transforming the sense of security of being enveloped into drama.
When choosing, it's a good idea to make sure the center of gravity isn't too high. If the first button is too high, your shoulders will look tense, so the current trend is to have it positioned slightly below the center of your chest. Buttoning only the top button, or just the inner button and one button at the top, instead of all the buttons, will allow the fabric to drape naturally.
The look changes depending on the lapel, shoulder line, and fabric
Even with the same style, a difference of just a few millimeters in lapel width can change the impression. If you have a small face, a narrower lapel will suit you, while if you have a strong frame, a slightly wider lapel will suit you. A "roped" shoulder line will give a classic look, while a "natural" one will give a light feel. As for fabrics, worsted wool or cashmere goes well with a Chester coat, gabardine or beaver with a raglan, and melton or herringbone with a double-breasted coat, and the beauty of the design is accentuated in deep neutral colors such as black, charcoal, navy, and dark brown.
Small styling tips
Layering a Chesterfield jacket over a suit of similar colors will create a neat, aligned vertical line. Whether you wear loafers or boots, choosing ones with a slightly longer toe will ensure the lines are not interrupted. Raglan jackets look great when layered with a turtleneck or scarf to create a rounded look around the neck, and bags with soft shapes look good. Double-breasted jackets are voluminous, so keep the inside light. Wearing a lightweight knit or shirt with the front half-open will allow the overlapping fabric to shine, creating beautiful shadows as you move.
The joy of learning about its origins
The court culture of Chester, the military function of the raglan, the naval history of the double-breasted jacket. When you realize that the underlying "necessities of life" form the backbone of today's elegance, your perspective on your choices will change a little. A coat is a tool that connects history and everyday life, and also a companion that gently supports one's posture.
Conclusion (A Spoonful of MOOD Thoughts)
At MOOD, we think of the coat as the "skeleton of an outfit." While respecting the individuality of the style, we create a quiet sense of persuasiveness with the texture of the material and long lines. Chester cuts straight lines, raglan cuts add space, and double cuts lower the center of gravity a little - we believe in the beauty of design over excessive decoration, adapting to the mood and body temperature of the day.
I hope to continue to carefully cultivate the elegance that can be conveyed without having to raise my voice.
