Y’s by TAKESHI KOSAKA 2017 Spring/Summer Relaxed China Jacket

As a brand connected to Yohji Yamamoto's lineage, while focusing on real clothes that support daily life, Y’s by TAKESHI KOSAKA proposes designs with a quiet sense of discomfort. Here, we introduce an exquisite piece that lightly combines an oriental mood with the atmosphere of a work jacket.

This exquisite piece is crafted from a textile with a simple expression, finished with a silhouette that exudes a dignified presence.

The outer fabric is made from a blend of cotton, rayon, and linen, combining the flexibility of cotton with the dry touch characteristic of linen, resulting in a fabric that is easy to wear against the skin and feels light when layered in spring and summer. The subtle twill weave creates a faint expression when hit by light, allowing for a deep black tone despite its plain appearance. The inside is lined with cupro and cotton, providing both smoothness and breathability, ensuring comfort even over short sleeves and making it suitable for long seasons.

The front features evenly spaced decorative knot closures that symbolize the Chinese jacket, with three-dimensionally woven loops and knots adding subtle decoration within a minimalist surface. These knots serve not only as decoration but also emphasize the vertical lines when the front is closed, balancing the length, and embodying Y’s characteristic attitude of "telling personality through quiet details" seen in the Spring/Summer 2017 season.

The collar opens gently like a shirt collar, creating a clean look around the neck while balancing the ethnic impression of the Chinese design, making it easy to incorporate into everyday wear.

The silhouette features a boxy proportion with a slightly relaxed width and a compact length, designed so that the shoulders are not overly dropped. When worn, the fabric gently floats away from the body, creating a line that simultaneously feels light and structured. The front has slash pockets that are carefully designed so that the vertical lines are not disrupted when hands are inserted, a trait unique to brands rooted in tailoring.

The cuffs and hem are deliberately finished with a raw edge-like nuance, and the contrast with the neatly arranged Chinese buttons subtly expresses Yohji Yamamoto's value of leaving things somewhat unfinished. This rough edge treatment gradually changes with age, becoming a detail that marks the wearer's time, and resonates with the genderless vibe of the 2010s and beyond, evoking a sense of gentle strength.

In terms of styling, pairing with wide pants that have a relaxed drape to emphasize vertical lines maintains a genderless and high-fashion atmosphere, while also giving a somewhat relaxed impression. Layering over a long skirt to highlight the raw edge of the hem causes the fabric to sway with each step, subtly accentuating the Chinese button details.

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