Autumn/Winter 2025 Fashion Overview: A season where shape and texture return
What's happening now (designer trends and news)
This fall/winter, the atmosphere changed dramatically with the change in the brand's "face." The first major change was the surprise unveiling of Demna's first collection for Gucci, titled "La Famiglia." Each character plays out a different "Gucci-ness," and the lookbook resembles a family photo, presenting a new narrative style that combines sexiness and nostalgia. It seems that a reworking of the brand's symbols will be the tone going forward.
Valentino's Alessandro Michele team is now fully operational in Paris. For AW25, he proposed a stage set modeled after a "public toilet," showcasing a performative expression of intimacy. His approach, which emphasizes the emotional impact of the space without suppressing materials and decoration, is striking.
And so, the news of Giorgio Armani's passing was a major event. Amid the quiet atmosphere of mourning, the "beauty of restraint" that he embodied throughout his life was spoken of once again, and retrospectives and memorial processions followed in Milan. It felt as though the value of clothing "telling things in the margins, not in ostentation" was shared once again.
Autumn/Winter 2025 Trend Map
1) Tailoring and the long line are back
The mood of quiet strength created by the details is back. At Saint Laurent, large shoulders and minimalist styling are once again the focus. The colors are intense, the lines are long, and the balance is such that the "position of the body" is clearly visible even in minimalist styles.
2) Intimate Dressing
The vocabulary of lingerie, sheer fabrics, and nightwear quietly transitioned to daytime wear. Prada redefined femininity by combining classic accessories with a subversive aesthetic, while Miu Miu demonstrated "elegance from nothing" through the contrast between strong ornamentation and plain materials. Valentino's "bathroom" presentation was also emblematic of this trend.
3) Feeling the material – leather, shearling, and the texture of the pile
Coats, boleros, and collars feature shearling and fur-like textures. In Milan, shades of brown and mocha go well with coats, and the weight of leather is also perceived positively. There are more ways to show richness by using different textures.
4) Dressing up to straddle the two poles of "calmness and elegance"
The continuation of Y2K-esque sparkle and a clean, minimalist aesthetic coexist. The key is the shift between showy and understated, with 24/7 sequins, "modern prep," and nomadic layering.
Predictions for the next year based on the collection
- Brands attract with "story characters" : As Gucci's "La Famiglia" shows, there will be more and more situations where character design rather than logos will be the purchasing motivation. Warm storytelling and the re-editing of symbols will run side by side.
- Continuing with the long and lean look : coat length, skirt length, and the looseness of pants - the "vertical stretch" design will remain at the core of next year. Shoulders will maintain their presence without being too exaggerated, and the overall look will be light. The lines set by Saint Laurent are likely to remain the standard for some time to come.
- Visualization of craftsmanship : A trend to build "quiet persuasiveness" through the selection of materials and precision of sewing. The method of expressing richness through texture differences rather than abundant decoration will expand. The Milan coat trend is boosting this trend.
Practical tips for dressing this fall and winter
- Try incorporating one long line : Once you have established the verticality with a long coat or wide trousers, make the upper body thin and light. The weight is not in the "surface" but in the "drape."
- Creating a layered effect of materials : wool x leather, flat wool x fuzzy knit, matte fabric x a slight sheen. Layering different textures in one place creates a sense of "calm x elegant."
- The key to incorporating intimates is to avoid being too transparent : A turtleneck or tights can be worn with sheer innerwear to maintain warmth and depth. For a touch of glamour in the evening, small jewelry and a mini bag can be used.
- The color palette is centered around brown : instead of black, use dark brown, mocha, or camel. Adding white or greige creates a seasonal shade.
Major brands' "look of the season" (brief review)
Saint Laurent : Deep colours and strong shoulders. A clean minimalist look with a hint of the '80s.
Valentino : The stage set also creates an intimacy. The decoration can be increased, but the narrative should be delicate. If you want to create an extension of everyday life, the key is how you layer textures.
Dior (Women/Men) : A back and forth between archival references and modernity. The use of wool and silk was exquisite, and minimalist proposals with understated logos also stood out.
Prada / Miu Miu : Redefining femininity. Classic elements are subverted, and the range of raw materials and strong decoration captures the current mood.
Just a little bit, in the mood
What we value for autumn and winter is speaking through silhouette and texture. Using the "long lines" of a set-up or chester coat as the framework, we add a quiet sense of elevation through the use of different materials. Adding just a few intimate elements to this - a lightweight turtleneck, a delicate necklace, or the "punctuation" of a mini bag - creates a unique atmosphere that is perfect for this year. We want to carefully build up experiences where your outfit can reach people without having to raise your voice.
Summary
This autumn/winter, lines and textures are once again the focus. Long, straight silhouettes are layered with a single layer of different textures, such as wool, leather, and shearling. Its quiet strength feels like it blends seamlessly into everyday wear. Intimate elements are not used for show, but to add depth, and colors have shifted from exclusively black to a range of browns. Just a single touch of white or greige creates the shadows that are so characteristic of this season.
The designer's actions have also clarified the direction. A narrative style that translates the brand's symbols into "characters," a sense of balance that alternates between decoration and restraint, and above all, the visualization of craftsmanship. This year looks set to be one in which our ears will be drawn to the persuasive power of stitching and draping rather than the loudness of logos. The news of Armani's passing reminded us of the value of elegance that speaks in the margins rather than ostentation.
Looking ahead, it seems the "long and lean" trend will continue for some time, with methods of creating richness through the use of varying materials becoming more refined. Rather than over-telling a story, it should be conveyed naturally through the wearer's movements. It would be great if our wardrobes could also be quietly updated by editing rather than adding.
