Thinking Away from the Rain: The History, Culture, and Inheritance of British Trench and Chesterfield
Introduction
Taking a step back from the history of British coats as a means of "climate adaptation," we can see two styles that have given form to urban etiquette: the trench coat and the Chesterfield. In what follows, we trace the evolution of their meanings, drawing on technological innovation, social history, and modern and contemporary collections.
19th Century Technological Innovation (Macintosh)
First, in the first half of the 19th century, Scottish chemist Charles Mackintosh invented a waterproofing method that bonded fabrics together using naphtha, a substance derived from coal tar, and natural rubber, and the term "mac" became established as a term for outerwear. This was the first time that the chemistry of the Industrial Revolution had given clothing the functionality to protect people from the uncertainties of the outdoors.
The appearance of Aquascutum (1851-)
Following this trend, John Emery founded Aquascutum in London in 1851. In 1853, he patented "waterproof wool" and supplied it to officers' coats during the Crimean War. This was the beginning of how weather-resistant fabrics were adapted to "urban formal wear."
Burberry and Gabardine (1879/1888)
Meanwhile, Burberry, founded in 1856, developed breathable and durable gabardine in 1879 (patented in 1888). This material later became the basis for military coats and helped establish the trench coat.
World War I and the Creation of the Trench
Trench coats were developed during World War I as a lightweight overcoat for officers to replace the heavy greatcoat. Details such as epaulettes (indicating rank), D-rings (for hanging equipment), gun flaps, and storm shields were functional symbols of military uniform, and trench coats at the time also bore the rank implication of being "optional for officers." For this reason, when trench coats were collected in cities after the war, they were no longer simply rain gear, but had already established a foundation for being read as symbols of discipline and behavior.
Urban Recovery and Symbolization (1920s–1960s)
From the interwar period to the 1960s, the trench coat became increasingly symbolic as part of the urban fashion language. In the 1920s, a checked lining was introduced, and by the 1960s it had become a brand symbol. Today, it has also established itself as a cultural asset, as seen in museum collections (such as the Metropolitan Museum of Art's 1960s and 1970s collection).
The Establishment of Chesterfield (1840s~)
The Chesterfield is an "urban overcoat" that became popular in the UK in the mid-19th century. Its classic features, a straight cut with no waist seam and a velvet collar, bridged the transition from the era of frock coats to the era of "lounge suits." In the second half of the 19th century, it became established as a standard men's coat, and would go on to influence subsequent dress codes.
Late 20th Century to the Present: Reinterpreting the Collection
Since the second half of the 20th century, both styles have become an "urban lingua franca" that transcends class, occupation, and gender. Reinterpretation within collections is key. For example, Burberry loosened the structure of the trench coat in the late 2010s, updating the classic look with volume and transparency (Fall 2017, a context that included interaction with the streets of London). Sacai, meanwhile, expanded the trench coat's structure with "transformation and variation" for Fall 2021, deconstructing stereotypes from the outside. Furthermore, the Mode Museum of Modern Art (MoMu) presented several examples of Martin Margiela's "trench coat as deconstruction," redefining the definition of timeless luxury.
The Chesterfield, with its slender lines and restrained expression, remains a symbol of "urban symmetry" and is reintroduced as a staple for autumn and winter. Its moderate yet ceremonial design ensures a wide range of occasions while imprinting an "attitude" on an outfit. Journalism has also repeatedly pointed out its continuity and versatility.
Details tell us about the "urban etiquette"
Seen in this light, the trench coat's "functional symbols" -- epaulets, gun flaps, storm shield, belt -- and the Chesterfield coat's "velvet collar and straight lines" go beyond mere details and function as a visual language that embodies urban behavior. The former represents discipline and behavior, the latter restraint and propriety. Both carry the technological innovations and history of military uniforms and men's clothing of the 19th century, and over the course of the 20th century they matured into "cloaks of meaning" -- this could be said to be the skeleton of a British coat.
A Spoonful of MOOD
MOOD sees the trench coat and the Chesterfield jacket as tools of "quiet subjectivity." They express their intentions through the rationality of their contours, fabrics, and construction, without excessive decoration or narrative. Without forgetting the origins of rain gear and the norms of formal wear, we reposition these two styles into the gender-transcending urban wardrobe, proposing them as long-term companions in line with the rhythms of modern life.
