Desire, Dreams, and Redefinition —The Path of the Designers Who Rebuilt Gucci Part 2
In Part 1, we traced the company's history from its founding in 1921 to its expansion as a family business and the birth of its iconic bags and loafers, but it is what followed that transformed Gucci as a fashion house into a legend.
In Part 2 of this article, we will analyze the restructuring of Gucci's aesthetic during three periods, from Tom Ford and Alessandro Michele to the current Sabato de Sarno.
The Tom Ford Era (1990–2003) — Sexuality saved the brand
In the early 1990s, when Gucci was on the rocks due to family strife and poor business performance, it was the then-little-known American designer Tom Ford who changed the brand's fortunes.
His Fall/Winter 1995 collection featured velvet hip-hugging pants, glossy lips, and smoky eyes. Erotic and sophisticated, it was a bold look that anticipated the 90s' "Y2K mode," and redefined fashion as a medium for desire.
"Ford has made Gucci not just a brand, but a lifestyle icon."
He subsequently led Gucci to a nine-fold increase in sales over a five-year period, achieving a financial revival for the brand, and was involved in the revival of Bottega Veneta and Yves Saint Laurent, becoming the face of the Gucci Group.
The Alessandro Michele Era (2015–2022) — Excessive Dreaming and Genderless Poetics
After a period of turmoil following Ford's departure, Alessandro Michele was appointed as Frida Giannini's successor in 2015.
What Michele brought to the table was a paradoxical innovation: "anti-sexy." His maximalism (excessive decoration) reminiscent of 1970s vintage clothing and items, and his poetic ambiguity that blurred the boundaries of gender, instantly captivated the world.
In 2016, a collection combining a reinterpretation of the GG monogram, excessive embroidery, and flora and fauna symbols (tiger, snake, bamboo) was released, bringing Gucci back to the forefront of fashion.
"Gucci has never been younger, freer, or more about self-expression."
— Vogue, "Hacky Birthday, GUCCI" article
During this period, the brand transformed into a symbol of Hollywood and alternative culture, with campaigns linked to music and movies, led by Harry Styles and Billie Eilish, redefining the image of "new cool."
However, on the other hand, concerns began to be raised about brand fatigue due to "over-decoration" and "nostalgia," and he suddenly stepped down in 2022.
The Sabato de Sarno Era (2023–2025) — Silence, Clarity, and a Return to Basics
The man who will lead Gucci until 2025 is Neapolitan designer Sabato De Sarno, who has experience at Valentino and Prada, and who, in contrast to Michele, has an aesthetic sense that is minimalist and pragmatic.
His first collection, "GUCCI ANCORA," unveiled in September 2023, reduced logos and excessive decoration, emphasizing a quiet glamour that emphasized modern reality. Refined cuts, simple leather, and well-balanced color combinations offer a glimpse of the GUCCI of the pre-Tom Ford era, a spirit of craftsmanship that "competes through materials and tailoring."
"I want to make Gucci something that people will love again."
— Sabato de Sarno (Business of Fashion interview)
The redefinition of GUCCI is now entering a new phase.
What was the "GUCCI-ness" that the designer shook up?
Tom Ford gave GUCCI the "style of desire."
Alessandro Michele has created a "fantasy where memory and poetry intersect."
Sabato de Sarno seeks out "the beauty we truly need right now."
The three designers' aesthetics didn't intersect, and each was heading in a completely different direction, yet they all came together under the Gucci name.
In other words, "GUCCI-ness" is not something that can be essentially fixed, but rather it is nothing more than a spirit that accepts change itself.
Conclusion — GUCCI is the "renewal of symbols"
Now over 100 years old, GUCCI is not just a brand, but a living example of the evolution of the concept of luxury.
The change always began with an "updating of symbols."
A time when the horsebit was a symbol, a time when the GG logo was powerful, a time when bamboo knots were innovation.
And now we are waiting for the birth of a new symbol.
GUCCI has always been a collection of designers' responses to the question, "Who is luxury for?"
