"Mohair, Cashmere, Alpaca" - How the difference in pile length affects how the fabric absorbs light. A simple guide to material history, a lineage of classics, and long-lasting care.
Introduction: Why the same color has different "appearances of light"
The appearance of a coat or jacket can change dramatically depending not only on its color but also on how the fabric itself reflects and diffuses light.
The key factors are: 1) fiber thickness (microns), 2) the scale-like unevenness of the surface, and 3) the length and straightness of the pile. If you understand these, it becomes easy to understand why "even the same beige can give a different impression."
The basics of the three materials: First, understand the "light characteristics"
Mohair (Angora goat)
- Appearance: The smooth surface and straight hairs reflect light like a mirror, making contours appear sharper and giving the edges of suits and chester coats more definition.
- Texture: Smooth and firm. Young kid mohair is thin, soft, and has a delicate luster.
- Suitable for: Days when you want to look neat and dignified, or when you want to "show off your contours" in photos or on screen.
Cashmere (the downy hair of Kashmir goats)
- Appearance: Each strand is extremely thin and traps air, softly diffusing light. The contours gently melt and the shadows are soft.
- Texture: Melting to the touch. The fineness of 15-19μm (approximate) creates a moist surface.
- Suitable for: Ideal for long coats or one-piece coats that exude a quiet sense of luxury and are perfect for everyday wear.
Alpaca (native to the Andes)
- Appearance: Two-sided, depending on the breed. Suri has straight, shiny hair, while Huacaya has curly, fluffy, and matte hair.
- Texture: Suri is "smooth and glossy", Wakaiya is "soft and fluffy".
- Suitable for: Great for adding texture and mood (such as with pile/shaggy coats).
Historical highlights: The "story" of a material creates its value
- Cashmere: Originating from the shawl culture of North India and Kashmir. It became popular in Europe in the 19th century and was translated into the paisley pattern in the UK. Since then, it has become a material that carries the memory of luxury.
- Mohair: British mills began to use it extensively in tailoring in the mid-20th century. In 1957, Dormeuil's "TONIK®" became an iconic success, defining the sharp, sleek suit of the 1960s.
- Alpaca: A textile culture of the Andes that dates back to the pre-Colombian period. The two types of alpaca, suri and huacaiya, with their sheen and volume, have supported a wide range of textures to this day.
Lineage of masterpieces: Representative examples that you can feel the difference when you hold them in your hands
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Max Mara "Teddy Bear Icon Coat" (alpaca and wool)
The current model was released in 2013. The pile technology used to implant the flock onto the silk base fabric creates a fluffy texture that seems to embrace the light. Even with the same neutral color, the Teddy gives the impression of being "wrapped in the air." -
Loro Piana "Baby Cashmere" Coat (Pure Cashmere)
Only the downy hair of the baby goats is selected. The fine fibers give the surface a smooth and vibrant color, and functional processing such as the Rain System® takes the common sense of "high quality = delicate" a step further, making it a practical solution for everyday use. -
Dormeuil "TONIK®" Suit/Coat (Mohair)
The high-twist yarn and high luster give the fabric a firm, taut surface, a glossy sheen, and a crisp texture. The strength of this lineage is that it does not look flat even with a narrow chesterfield or tight lapel.
The basics of long-lasting care: less to do, more to see results
First, the common "3 steps"
- Immediately after wearing: Brush from top to bottom in one direction with a soft clothes brush to remove dust and pollen and straighten the fur.
- Let it rest: Hang it on a thick hanger and let it dry in a well-ventilated place overnight (moisture can cause it to lose its shape and be infested with insects).
- Storage: Use a nonwoven garment cover and insect repellent when out of season. Dry-clean only when necessary, not just to be safe (to reduce the strain on the fibers).
Tips for each material
- Mohair: High temperature steam or strong pressing will crush the luster. To remove wrinkles, gently use the humidity in the bathroom or low temperature steam, but avoid pressing too hard.
- Cashmere: Pilling easily occurs due to friction. Give it a rest by rotating it around, gently brushing away fluff, and gently smoothing out any pilling with a special comb, just on the surface. Always clean and dry completely before storing.
- Alpaca (Suri/Wakaiya): Suri is important to maintain its luster, so rubbing it is a no-no. Wakaiya should be stored without being crushed to maintain its fluffiness. Humidity control (avoiding high humidity) is effective for both.
Tip: If it gets wet in the rain, press it with a towel to remove excess water, then reshape it and dry it in the shade. Avoid using a hair dryer on high heat or in direct sunlight.
Tips for choosing the right one: Choose based on the time, place, and the expression you want to convey
- For a neat look and contoured silhouette, choose mohair. It stands out well in photography and on screen, and the edges stand out.
- For those who want to give their everyday life a sophisticated and calm look, choose cashmere. The beauty of the surface resonates when made in a single piece or double-faced (two pieces of fabric sewn together for a lightweight look without lining).
- If you want to add a seasonal feel or a touch of intimacy, choose alpaca. Pile/shaggy gives it a warm, airy look. Suri gives it a glossy, flowing feel, while Wakaiya gives it a fluffy, soft feel.
summary:
Mohair shines linearly, cashmere is soft and hazy, and alpaca offers a choice of gloss and volume. Even with the same pattern, different materials will absorb light differently, resulting in different impressions and uses. With minimal care—daily brushing, resting, and humidity control—you can maintain that look for a long time.
A Spoonful of MOOD
MOOD treats materials not as decoration but as "light design."
- Mohair is the perfect choice for days when you need a dignified presence.
- Cashmere is the perfect choice for days when you want to quietly go along with the pace of life.
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Alpacas are the perfect way to soften the seasonal mood.
Even with the same wardrobe, you can update the look by changing the way you use lighting.
We will propose the optimal solution from the perspective of "elegant, fashionable and genderless."
