Aesthetics after Antwerp: Between "Decadence" and "Classicism"
Introduction
The quiet waves that arrived from Antwerp in the mid-1980s gradually changed the way fashion was perceived. Black and white, poetic white space, traces of the hand. It feels as though fashion, having breathed that air, learned to communicate through "how things are made" and "the spaces between things" rather than through flashy declarations. Here, we will take a gentle look at the sensibility that spread afterwards - what could be called "post-Antwerp aesthetics."
What has changed?
Broadly speaking, we have moved away from the simple equation of high perfection equaling gloss and decoration, and have developed an eye for measuring perfection based on three things: tailoring, materials, and space. The angle at which the fabric is cut, the way the shoulder line is released, the density of the stitching... As this way of looking at things that pay close attention to such details has spread, the focus of clothing has shifted from being an "object with a lot of information" to being a "tool that quietly persuasive."
A sense of "after" using keywords
First of all, the shading. It's not jet black, but rather a near-black ink color, charcoal, or inky navy. The colors don't absorb too much light, and the difference in level between the outer and inner lining, and between the raised and flat fabrics creates depth.
Next comes editing. Even when elements from different cultures and eras are mixed, they can surprisingly harmonize as long as the silhouette remains the same. A bit of hand-embroidered detail on a tailored suit, a delicate silk collar on work pants—it's a sense of substitution rather than addition.
And the traces of the hand. Deconstruction and the texture of aging are perceived as ways of "showing time" rather than "destruction," and the careful seams and deliberately left raw edges give the pieces a quiet look.
Silhouette Resolution
The silhouettes of the post-Antwerp era are not exaggerated or flaunted, but rather change their impression by shifting the center of gravity. If the shoulders are high, the body is thin, and if the hem is wide, the waist is not too tight. When choosing a long length, leave some space at the feet to allow air to escape. By fine-tuning the balance between straight lines and curves, strength and gentleness can coexist.
Colors and materials
The color palette is centered around deep neutrals. Instead of black, try ink blue, mocha, or olive. Adding a touch of white or light gray will create a more balanced look. For materials, we recommend creating contrast with the varying textures of wool, silk, and leather. Wear a shaggy knit under your coat, or a shirt with a slight sheen over matte trousers. This is the kind of richness that can only be conveyed when you're up close, without having to raise your voice.
Practicality and Poetry Coexist
The word "decadence" can sometimes have a strong ring to it, but after Antwerp, it gives the impression of being at peace with everyday life. The pockets are placed practically, the stitching ensures durability, and the margins sway when you move. It is precisely because of this design that a poetic mood naturally remains. The perspective of combining experimentation with ease of wear will easily fit into today's closets.
Applying it to everyday life
There's no need to overthink it. The shortcut is to create an image of a classic frame with a ripple effect inside. Pair a nuanced knit or a shirt with a subtle print underneath a neat Chester coat. Stick to dark tones and add punctuation with a belt buckle or a small gold necklace. A scarf can be used to break up a dressy outfit, and a loose knot will soften the look. Make use of the metal fittings and shape of the bag to create a finishing touch, almost like an accessory.
Spread of influence
This sensibility has spread beyond the boundaries of specific brands. Luxury and streetwear, men's and women's, current and vintage. The lines that once separated have softened, and clothes are no longer "for someone else" but rather "how you want to wear them." Fashion is no longer a distant part of life, but has become a companion that follows the rhythm of your daily life. I feel like this change is continuing.
Conclusion - MOOD's sense of distance
At MOOD, we carefully edit the atmosphere of **decadence x classic** that is reminiscent of Antwerp to suit the temperature of everyday life. We offer items from Dries and Margiela, with a focus on items that quietly demonstrate elaborate details, spanning seasons and eras, because we want you to feel the "thickness of time" that flows through the clothes. Rather than trying to be something you're not, we want to offer pieces that fit you perfectly. We hope to continue offering these pieces with this kind of distance in mind.