“tricot COMME des GARÇONS” 1990’s-00’s Lace-up military boots

From tricot COMME des GARÇONS, a label that has quietly introduced a sense of unease into established notions of beauty—imbuing everyday wear with inner strength—here we present an archival boots masterpiece in which the brand’s aesthetic sensibility permeates through the shoe’s practical construction.

Based on a design that brings to mind rugged military boots, yet the overall silhouette remains delicately slim, resulting in a compelling coexistence of power and refinement. With its form rising straight from the ankle to the shaft, the presence is unmistakable without feeling overly heavy, and that quiet tension distinctly characteristic of Tricot is especially impressive.

First, what draws the eye is the leather in a deep dark brown with a reddish undertone. Depending on the light, it reveals a subdued expression close to black; when you move, the concealed warmth and sheen within seem to rise to the surface. This creates a depth that a single-tone boot simply cannot convey. Furthermore, scuffs that appear around the toe and heel from wear produce natural shadowing that cannot be achieved through processing alone—the very time this pair has accumulated functions as part of the design, which is also a major attraction.

In terms of construction, it features an 8-eyelet lace-up specification. The vertical lines created by lacing neatly up to the top are beautiful, and with the laces running in a regular, orderly pattern across the front, a visual rhythm is formed even without adding any extra decoration. Because the eyelets are unified in black, sunken hardware, the use of robust components does not make the impression too sharp, and the design maintains overall cohesion. Even the round laces, with their appropriately substantial thickness, evoke a work or military context while being balanced against a slimmer last, shaping this shoe’s distinctive equilibrium.

The upper is also marked throughout with three-needle stitching that serves as reinforcement. Although these are details originally intended for practicality, they are toned down with thread in the same color, avoiding overstatement and instead playing a role like a graphic—beautifully highlighting the transitions between surfaces. In particular, the counter reinforcement around the heel gives the rear profile a sure skeletal structure, while also tightening the boot’s overall outline, making the posture appear well composed when worn.

The sole is made with a rubber specification with added thickness, providing a stable grip that firmly meets the ground. Since the heel portion is also constructed as a separate component, it truly delivers the usability associated with work boots. At the same time, the overall volume is not exaggerated, so the silhouette does not protrude like a modern, heavy boot—making the landing point exquisitely suited to both skirts and trousers. This is one of the pair’s outstanding qualities.

In terms of the era, it is natural to consider it to be around 1995 to 2003. The reasons include, first, the three-tier metal stamping specification of tricot COMME des GARÇONS MADE IN JAPAN visible on the insole; the fractional notation “22 1/2” seen inside the shaft and on the outsole; and the method of managing sizes by applying them directly with white ink. These features overlap with those commonly found in late-90s to early-00s Comme des Garçons shoes. In addition, the physical credibility provided by the leather’s aging over time and the texture of the auxiliary materials carries the weight of many years—meaning this is not mere impression, but a pair whose sense of era can be trusted through the accumulation of details.

The added value of this boot lies in how it borrows signs and symbols from military and workwear, yet refuses to end there in a rugged, straightforward way. It is carefully designed down to the delicacy and tension that emerge when placed on a woman’s foot. Because the strength that tricot COMME des GARÇONS has long presented—not ending at mere prettiness—and the kind of rebellious spirit that lives within everyday clothing are encapsulated here in a very quiet form, this is not just a functional item or a vintage boot, but something you can enjoy with the sensation of wearing the brand’s ideas.

For styling, pairing it with long skirts or bottoms with a flare can naturally bring out the contrast between tricot’s characteristic softness and strength. If you work it into outfits centered on well-tailored shirts or light jackets, you can complete a look that adds tension from the ground up. Alternatively, it also works well with drapey trousers or a simple dress—because this boot itself has sufficient presence even without adding embellishment, the most beautiful overall effect is achieved when the rest is kept pared back.

We invite you to take this opportunity.