MOOD流 : 古着をラグジュアリーに着こなす5つの指南

MOOD Style: Five Tips for Styling Vintage Clothing Luxuriously

MOOD

Found through MOOD's discerning eye,
Ways to wear vintage in a luxurious way

Vintage shirt styling codes by MOOD

To wear vintage luxuriously, it's not enough to simply add brand items.

What matters is to clearly define the role of each piece within the outfit.
Where to shape the silhouette and where to add a playful touch.
Decide which colors to blend in and which accessories to catch the eye.
With that design, vintage clothing is no longer just a one-off item; it becomes the centerpiece of styling.

In this MOOD, centered on newly arrived vintage shirts, we combined brand items from Dior, HERMES, CHANEL, GUCCI, YVES SAINT LAURENT, Ferragamo, ARMANI, Maison Margiela, and others.

Here, we highlight five styling codes from among them. We won't describe the shirts themselves; we present styling codes to make vintage look luxurious.

Styling Code 01  ·  Classic & Playful

To a classic look,
Add a playful touch

STYLING CODE 01

ャツ、ネクタイ、スラックス。This combination has a classic appeal.

However, if you keep everything traditional, the look will appear stiff. What you need is a hint of playfulness from bags or jewelry.

Keep the dress silhouette intact. Then, break the harmony in one place. This is the first way to draw vintage shirts into a luxurious styling.

THE FORMULA
Classic shirt + Tailored trousers + Playful bag or jewellery = Personal classic styling
01

First, establish a crisp base

STYLING CODE 01 - 01

In this look, the base is vintage striped shirt, USED tie, and Dior trousers.

Shirt stripes create vertical rhythm on the upper body. The USED tie further strengthens that line, adding a classic tension. Dior trousers, while absorbing the softness of vintage shirts, guide the whole toward a dress-focused direction.

Do not break here. The foundation is crisp, so the playful touches added later will be effective.

02

Loosen the rigidity of classic with a bag

STYLING CODE 01 - 02

A MIU MIU bag is an item to add a sense of ease to this styling.

If you complete the look with only a shirt, tie, and slacks, it will feel quite linear and stiff. Adding a bag with rounded edges eases the overall tension.

A bag is not merely an accessory. It is a device to create a visual escape within a classic look.

03

Leave a personal nuance at the wrist

STYLING CODE 01 - 03

The YVES SAINT LAURENT bracelet and Jean Paul GAULTIER ring are finishing touches that leave a personal flair on the look.

Classic styling tends to draw attention to the face and the feet. By placing accessories at the wrist, the gaze is dispersed and the styling gains a human touch.

You don't need to add everything from the start. One item—either a bag or jewelry—is enough.

HOW TO TRY · Step Try
EASY TRY
Pair a white shirt, or a striped shirt, with solid-colored slacks. First, create a classic foundation.
STANDARD TRY
Add one item: a tie or a leather bag. If you want a dressier look, choose a tie; if you want to add playfulness, choose a bag.
HIGH-END TRY
Adjust the textures of the bag and the wrist. For soft bags pair with a hard metal, and for a refined bag pair with a slightly quirky ring.
REFERENCE NOTE
As an example of not making classic clothing look stiff, Dries Van Noten Spring 2015 Menswear is a good reference. Vogue Runway described the collection as having oversized double-breasted tailoring flowing like pajamas, illustrating a sense of softness in tailoring.
Dries Van Noten Reference
TAKEAWAY
Classics can feel a little stiff if kept strictly traditional. By adding a touch of playfulness to a bag or at the wrist, vintage shirts begin to breathe naturally within the dress.
Role Item Meaning
BASE Vintage stripe shirt / Dior trousers Create a classic silhouette with vertical lines
ACCENT MIU MIU bag Softens the stiffness and adds ease to the outfit
FINISH YVES SAINT LAURENT bracelet / Jean Paul GAULTIER ring Add a personal touch at the wrist
RULE MAP
PIECE NOTE
Reasons to choose this piece
The reason for choosing this striped shirt is that it easily builds a foundation for a classic look. It blends naturally with a tie and trousers while retaining the soft, vintage feel, so with the right accessories you can lean toward either a refined or a playful style.
If you would like to view this styling in more detail, click here.
Styling Code 02  ·  Brown & Black Accent

Brown tones
Don't blur,
黒小物の効かせ方

STYLING CODE 02

Outfits coordinated in ラウン and beige look calm.

However, if everything is blended too harmoniously, the contours become blurred. In particular, vintage browns have softer textures, which can cause the subdued quality to come forward too strongly. In some cases, nostalgia may overpower sartorial finesse.

What is needed there is black accents. Instead of increasing color count, introduce a grounding color. Simply adding black to a bag or shoes creates a defined silhouette within a one-tone look.

THE FORMULA
Brown one-tone + Black leather bag or shoes = Modern vintage styling
01

Base is composed of brown and beige tones.

STYLING CODE 02 - 01

In this look, a vintage brown cuffed big shirt serves as the color starting point. A Dior suede tailored jacket is layered over it.

A brown shirt alone can look somewhat rustic. Layering a suede jacket creates a difference in texture even within the same brown family. With colors close in tone, the way it reads changes.

Armani's tie adds a dress-like line to the upper body. Yves Saint Laurent's slacks direct the weight of the upper body downward, making the overall look appear vertically elongated.

02

Anticipate areas where ambiguity may arise.

STYLING CODE 02 - 02

One-tone styling is not complete by simply matching colors.

Brown shirt; suede jacket; a tie in a matching shade.

If kept as is, the boundaries between garments can blur, making the overall look appear dull. In particular, vintage browns can lean toward a more sober, restrained impression.

What is needed is not a splash of color, but a grounding shade.

03

Define the silhouette with a black bag or shoes.

STYLING CODE 02 - 03

Yves Saint Laurent's studded bag is an accessory that adds black's strength to brown's softness. The studs' hardness also works. A small tension arises within the tonal palette.

Maison Margiela tabi shoes disrupt the classic, harmonious balance at the feet. They can work with ordinary leather shoes, but the tabi silhouette shifts the brown look toward a more modern, runway-inspired stance.

Dior sunglasses serve as the finishing touch that defines the face. Brown-toned outfits can look soft, so keeping the expression sharp with eyewear ensures the overall look does not blur.

HOW TO TRY · Step Try
EASY TRY
Wrap it in brown, beige, khaki, and other close tones. First, narrow the color palette.
STANDARD TRY
Include a single black leather bag or black leather shoes. It defines the overall silhouette.
HIGH-END TRY
Layer different materials—suede, cotton, leather, etc. Even within the same color family, it doesn’t look flat.
REFERENCE NOTE
As an example of crafting an intelligent edge with muted tones and heavy accessories, Prada Spring 1996 Ready-to-Wear is highly instructive. Vogue Runway discussed the collection, noting avocado green, muted browns, clashing prints, and heavy sandals, conveying a sense of a refined color palette that is slightly offset.
TAKEAWAY
One-tone styling is not complete by simply coordinating colors. By adding a single black item on either the bag or the shoes, the soft texture of vintage pieces gains a clear silhouette.
Role Item Meaning
BASE Vintage brown cuffs big shirt / YVES SAINT LAURENT trousers Create a calm foundation centered on brown.
ACCENT Dior suede tailored jacket / ARMANI tie Add texture differences and a dressy feel within a tonal color family.
FINISH YVES SAINT LAURENT bag / Maison Margiela Tabi shoes / Dior sunglasses Define the silhouette with black accessories and eyewear.
RULE MAP
PIECE NOTE
Reasons to choose this piece
The reason for choosing this brown shirt lies in its depth of color, which makes it easy to incorporate into a one-tone look. It harmonizes with both the jacket and the slacks, and even when paired with a black bag or distinctive shoes, its presence does not fade. It is a piece that, rather than simply keeping a subdued tone, can lead to a refined styling.
If you would like to view this styling in more detail, click here.
Styling Code 03 · Clean & Scarf Movement

For a clean look,
Create movement with the scarf.

STYLING CODE 03

い shirt and slacks combination is clean.

However, as it stands, it would be too quiet. Therefore, use a scarf. Do not wrap it around the neck; place it at the waist. Use the scarf not as an ornament, but as part of the styling. That alone adds movement to the look.

THE FORMULA
Clean shirt styling + Scarf at the waist = Light but controlled elegance
01

The base is a pale shirt and slacks.

STYLING CODE 03 - 01

In this look, a vintage pink and blue striped dress shirt forms the base. The colors are pale, and the pattern is not too bold. It is this understated shirt that brings the scarf variations to life.

Armani slacks serve to ground the shirt's refined impression. If the pants are too casual here, the scarf's use may come across as mere play. By anchoring the overall look with the slacks, the waist-worn scarf becomes cohesive.

02

A scarf can form the foundation of styling with a single wrapping method.

STYLING CODE 03 - 02

The Dior scarf is the centerpiece of this look.

Wrapped around the neck, it’s classic. When wrapped at the waist, the silhouette changes. By introducing movement of fabric at the boundary between the shirt and slacks, the vertical, flowing look does not appear monotonous. A scarf is not a mere ornament; it is an item that draws the eye to the center of the body.

03

Accessories remain only to support the scarf.

STYLING CODE 03 - 03

Yves Saint Laurent bag helps temper the lightness of the pale shirt and slacks. The leather texture prevents the outfit from looking too light or drifting.

Gucci sunglasses help define the face. CHANEL ring adds a touch of small flourish to the hands. Sergio Rossi shoes keep the feet in a dressier direction.

If you place a scarf at the waist, other accessories should not be too assertive. The scarf is the star. The rest support that movement.

HOW TO TRY · Step Try
EASY TRY
Create a clean base with a white shirt, a pale striped shirt, and plain slacks.
STANDARD TRY
Wrap a long, narrow scarf around the waist. Pick the color from the shirt or bag.
HIGH-END TRY
To make the scarf the centerpiece, keep bags and accessories restrained. Finish with leather shoes.
REFERENCE NOTE
In Dior Fall 2020, printed scarves were used like bandanas or headbands, merging with the hairstyle to define the look's impression. Scarves are accessories, but depending on their placement, they can become the outfit's main feature.
Dior Reference
TAKEAWAY
Scarves are not only for the neck. Placed at the waist, they add movement to a clean outfit. The lighter the shirt, the more effective this small change is.
Role Item Meaning
BASE Vintage stripe dress shirt / ARMANI trousers Create a clean base and vertical lines.
ACCENT Dior scarf / YVES SAINT LAURENT bag Create movement at the hip and calm the overall look with leather.
FINISH GUCCI sunglasses / CHANEL ring / Sergio Rossi shoes Frame the face, hands, and feet.
RULE MAP
PIECE NOTE
Reasons to choose this piece
The reason for choosing this dress shirt lies in its understated, refined neatness that accepts alterations. The pale stripes are not too assertive, and pairing with scarves or leather bags still doesn't look overdone. It maintains a clean impression while allowing variation with fabric accessories.
If you would like to view this styling in more detail, click here.
Styling Code 04 · Feminine & Leather Contrasts

The feminine mood,
Tighten with leather.

STYLING CODE 04

リル、レース、シアー、柔らかい色。Feminine elements, when worn as is, look romantic.

That is also part of the appeal. However, MOOD would like to add a bit more strength there. Layer leather. Ground the feet with weight. With those two elements, the feminine mood shifts from sweetness toward a fashion-forward direction.

THE FORMULA
Feminine inner + Black leather outer + Heavy shoes = Modern romantic styling
01

Create feminine elements with the inner layer.

STYLING CODE 04 - 01

In this look, the vintage frill shirt is the star. It features a vivid color, a chest frill, and a soft mood. On its own, it’s quite showy.

To keep this shirt from looking sweet, you need contrasting materials.

02

Use leather to temper the sweetness.

STYLING CODE 04 - 02

A vintage leather jacket tightens the sweetness of the frills. The inclusion of black leather makes the yellow shirt read not as cute, but as a strong color punctuating the black.

Here, pairing with HERMES slacks is also important. With only frills and leather, it would tilt toward rock or vintage. Including the slacks returns the outfit to a calm, dress-like direction.

03

Ground the look with the bag and shoes.

STYLING CODE 04 - 03

CELINE's bag picks up the shirt's hue and connects to the leather jacket with a black line. Because it picks up color, the bag doesn't look out of place.

Maison Margiela tabi boots place weight at the feet. When the contrast between leather and frill is strong, a light-footed shoe can make the overall look feel unstable. By grounding the outfit with boots, the silhouette is tightened.

Dior sunglasses complete the look by keeping the face framing sharp.

HOW TO TRY · Step Try
EASY TRY
Choose one feminine underlayer—frills, lace, or sheer.
STANDARD TRY
Layer black leather or a structured jacket to tighten the sweetness.
HIGH-END TRY
Make the footwear boots. When the bag and sunglasses are kept in dark colors, the overall look appears more fashion-forward.
REFERENCE NOTE
The sense of tightening feminine details with black or a rock mood is also reminiscent of Hedi Slimane's Saint Laurent Spring 2013 Ready-to-Wear. WWD described the collection's first look as a small black jacket, slim black pants, a white frill shirt, and a large soft bow, indicating that feminine elements and the tension of black coexisted.
Saint Laurent Reference
TAKEAWAY
Feminine clothing doesn’t have to be worn sweetly. By shaping the silhouette with leather and boots, frills become a strong detail rather than cuteness.
Role Item Meaning
BASE Vintage frill shirt / HERMES trousers Create a feminine focal point while maintaining the outfit with slacks.
ACCENT Vintage leather jacket / CELINE bag Tighten the sweetness with black leather and connect the colors.
FINISH Maison Margiela Tabi boots / Dior sunglasses Emphasize the feet and the face.
RULE MAP
PIECE NOTE
Reasons to choose this piece
The reason for choosing this frill shirt is that it can translate a feminine mood into a strong styling. When paired with leather or slacks, it creates a presence that is not simply sweetness. It is a shirt whose expression becomes more pronounced when layered.
If you would like to view this styling in more detail, click here.
Styling Code 05 · Decorative & Structured Elegance

Glamorous details,
Harmonize the embellishment with a jacket.

STYLING CODE 05

Pleats, lace, scarves, gloves. Glamorous details add a special tension to the outfit.

However, simply layering can appear cluttered. What you need is the garment to anchor it: put on a jacket. That alone helps the embellishment achieve sartorial completeness.

THE FORMULA
Dressy details + Structured jacket + Leather bag = Couture-inspired styling
01

The main feature is the glamorous detail.

STYLING CODE 05 - 01

In this look, the vintage pintuck-pleated dress shirt is the centerpiece of the embellishment. Its chest features subtle shading and even on its own it has character.

By adding Dior's Mitzah scarf, a vertical line is created at the neckline. Used lace gloves are an advanced element to add a dressy touch to the hands.

02

Consolidate the embellishment with a jacket.

STYLING CODE 05 - 02

The Dior jacket is essential to this styling.

Shirt, scarf, gloves. When there are many glamorous elements, the look tends to scatter without a jacket. The lines at the shoulder, collar, and front body help the details come together into a single ensemble.

Valentino skirt serves to elongate the overall silhouette vertically. By making the lower body appear longer relative to a richly decorated upper half, balance is achieved.

03

Use bags and shoes to adjust the sweetness.

STYLING CODE 05 - 03

Ferragamo bag adds classic weight with leather and hardware. When there are many light elements like pleats and lace, a heavier bag tightens the overall look.

Maison Margiela's tabi boots give dressy looks a slightly mod edge. Gucci sunglasses complete the look without making the face appear too sweet.

Maintain the glamour, but don't let it read as sugary. That's what accessories are for.

HOW TO TRY · Step Try
EASY TRY
Choose one glamorous top— pleats, lace, or sheer. Keep the lead piece to a single item.
STANDARD TRY
Layer a sturdy-shouldered, well-cut jacket. Compose embellishments with understated elegance.
HIGH-END TRY
When adding scarves, gloves, or rings, finish the look with a leather bag to tie the whole ensemble together.
REFERENCE NOTE
The idea of neatly containing glamorous inner pieces with a jacket also applies to Dior's Bar Jacket. Vogue notes that the Bar Jacket was introduced by Christian Dior on February 12, 1947, as a symbol of the New Look, creating an hourglass silhouette, and has been reinterpreted by successive Dior designers.
Dior Bar Jacket Reference
TAKEAWAY
Glamorous details do not become complete by simply adding them. When balanced by a jacket and anchored with a leather bag, the embellishment reads as dressy.
Role Item Meaning
BASE Vintage pintuck pleated dress shirt / VALENTINO skirt Create a glamorous focal point and a vertical flow.
ACCENT Dior jacket / Dior Mitzah scarf / Ferragamo bag Elegantly curate decorations to create a dressy look.
FINISH USED lace gloves / Maison Margiela Tabi boots / GUCCI sunglasses Add finishing touches to the hands, feet, and face.
RULE MAP
PIECE NOTE
Reasons to choose this piece
The reason for choosing this pintuck shirt is that it features glamorous detailing while also functioning beautifully as an inner layer under a jacket. The chest shading adds depth to the outfit and blends naturally with dress elements such as scarves and gloves. It does not overemphasize glamour; when paired with a jacket, it looks beautifully refined.
If you would like to view this styling in more detail, click here.
Postscript · MOODのひとさじ

Reasons to choose vintage shirts

The appeal of vintage shirts lies in their natural compatibility with your existing wardrobe and in how they can change their character depending on the accessories and outerwear you pair with them.

For classics, inject a touch of playfulness.
For a monochrome look, use a darker accent color.
For a clean look, let the fabric's movement speak.
For a feminine mood, counterbalance with the strength of leather.
For glamorous details, balance them with a jacket.

This is not limited to vintage shirts. It can also be applied to blouses, knits, jackets, and skirts.

However, the shirt is an excellent entry point because it is easy to pick up and easy to coordinate with your existing wardrobe.
It also goes well with slacks.
It can be worn under a jacket.
It also coordinates with scarves, bags, and jewelry.

Vintage clothing is not on the opposite side of luxury. When paired correctly, it can sit alongside luxury.

We would be grateful if you could first experience this with a single shirt.

MOOD Journal

-MOOD Vintage Collections-

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-MOOD Vintage Collections- 80’s-90’s Multi stripe relaxed jacket

-MOOD Vintage Collections- 80’s-90’s Multi stripe relaxed jacket

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£163.00
Sale price  £163.00 Regular price 
-MOOD Vintage Collections- 70’s-80’s Sheer stripe long point collar shirt

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£109.00
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-MOOD Vintage Collections- 90’s-00’s Shiny textured wide leg trousers

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£125.00
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-MOOD Vintage Collections- 80’s Geometric pattern knit gown coat

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£163.00
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-MOOD Vintage Collections- 00’s Minimal black supima cotton knit

-MOOD Vintage Collections- 00’s Minimal black supima cotton knit

-MOOD Vintage Collections- 00’s Minimal black supima cotton knit

£125.00
Sale price  £125.00 Regular price 
-MOOD Vintage Collections- 90’s-00’s Single button linen blend jacket

-MOOD Vintage Collections- 90’s-00’s Single button linen blend jacket

-MOOD Vintage Collections- 90’s-00’s Single button linen blend jacket

£158.00
Sale price  £158.00 Regular price 
-MOOD Vintage Collections- 70’s-80’s Stripe long point collar shirt

-MOOD Vintage Collections- 70’s-80’s Stripe long point collar shirt

-MOOD Vintage Collections- 70’s-80’s Stripe long point collar shirt

£92.00
Sale price  £92.00 Regular price 
-MOOD Vintage Collections- 90’s Round collar fly front shirt

-MOOD Vintage Collections- 90’s Round collar fly front shirt

-MOOD Vintage Collections- 90’s Round collar fly front shirt

£109.00
Sale price  £109.00 Regular price 
-MOOD Vintage Collections- 70’s Ruffled long point collar shirt

-MOOD Vintage Collections- 70’s Ruffled long point collar shirt

-MOOD Vintage Collections- 70’s Ruffled long point collar shirt

£109.00
Sale price  £109.00 Regular price 
-MOOD Vintage Collections- 90’s Houndstooth linen relaxed shirt

-MOOD Vintage Collections- 90’s Houndstooth linen relaxed shirt

-MOOD Vintage Collections- 90’s Houndstooth linen relaxed shirt

£109.00
Sale price  £109.00 Regular price 
-MOOD Vintage Collections- 90’s Fine ridge ivory drape shirt

-MOOD Vintage Collections- 90’s Fine ridge ivory drape shirt

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£109.00
Sale price  £109.00 Regular price 
-MOOD Vintage Collections- 70’s-80’s Tone on tone check dress shirt

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£92.00
Sale price  £92.00 Regular price 
-MOOD Vintage Collections- 70’s-80’s Long point collar dress shirt

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£120.00
Sale price  £120.00 Regular price 
-MOOD Vintage Collections- 90’s-00’s Large floral print drape shirt

-MOOD Vintage Collections- 90’s-00’s Large floral print drape shirt

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£109.00
Sale price  £109.00 Regular price 
-MOOD Vintage Collections- 90’s Pinstripe wool tailored jacket by Yves Saint Laurent pour homme

-MOOD Vintage Collections- 90’s Pinstripe wool tailored jacket by Yves Saint Laurent pour homme

-MOOD Vintage Collections- 90’s Pinstripe wool tailored jacket by Yves Saint Laurent pour homme

£218.00
Sale price  £218.00 Regular price