"UNDERCOVER" Raw edge frill design military-like shirt tunic

This is a piece that truly embodies the brand from UNDERCOVER, a Japanese fashion label launched in 1990 by designer Jun Takahashi, renowned for its distinctive world that blends street style with avant-garde sensibilities.

Here, the hard-edged quality of military design, spoken of in a quiet, intimate tone, and a poetic femininity are interwoven amid a sense of tension—clothing you in an exquisite form born of contrast.

The front is built around a band collar and double-breasted, side-by-side concealed buttons, with patch pockets reminiscent of workwear and asymmetrical stitching. The carefully made red covered buttons carry a hint of venom and playfulness within their functionality, acting as an eye-catching accent within a hushed, restrained color palette.

On the sleeves, gathers are introduced, and a cut-off ruffle is added from the shoulder down toward the sleeve crown—quiet yet emotionally expressive, containing movement without being loud. The “beauty of unfinished” that lingers throughout connects to the poetics of “disruption and construction” that designer Jun Takahashi has pursued with consistency.

And the most striking design detail is the black pleated chiffon concealed at the back—cascading down the wearer as if a shadow carries the wind, swaying gently in response to the body’s movements. The result is a visual poetic sensibility in which stillness and dynamism coexist. Toughness and delicacy, straight lines and curves, light and shadow—each contrast harmonizes impeccably within this single piece.

By blurring conventional gender boundaries while proudly expressing a form that responds to the body’s movement, this piece subtly yet certainly articulates UNDERCOVER’s philosophy. It can be described as a quiet, poem-like presence that drifts between mode and everyday life.

For styling, it is designed in the form of a shirt tunic with a slightly longer length, allowing styling versatility to expand freely depending on how you layer your bottoms. Whether you choose to wear it neatly with straight slacks, layer drape with wide pants, or finish it in a dress-like manner with short boots and tights—each approach is equally effective.

We invite you to take this opportunity.