GUCCI's designer journey and the new chapter following Demna's appointment
Founded in Florence in 1921 by Guccio Gucci, GUCCI has long reigned as the epitome of "Italian luxury." Starting as a brand of bags and luxury travel goods, it gradually expanded to include ready-to-wear, accessories, and shoes for both men and women. The brand's head of design (creative director) has also changed over the years as a key figure in determining the brand's direction.
Major designer changes (recent years)
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Alessandro Michele (2015-2022)
During Michele's time, Gucci rebuilt its identity with elements such as a colorful, eclectic style that blurred gender boundaries, and a revival of vintage-inspired ornaments and logos. While this attracted a lot of enthusiasm from consumers, the excessive ornamentation and overcrowded visual expression created a sense of saturation, gradually exposing the limitations of "edgy luxury."
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Sabato De Sarno (2023-2025)
Sabato De Sarno, who took over as Michele's successor in January 2023, was tasked with "restoring the brand's edge" and "reestablishing the brand's sense of brilliance and luxury." His style toned down the vibrant colors and decorative embellishments of the Michele era, focusing on more refined luxury and a style that was easy to incorporate into everyday wear. However, this did not resonate with consumers, and it is said that the brand's sales fell and the market response was limited.
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Demna Gvasalia (2025-)
In March 2025, Demna Gvasalia, the former creative director of Balenciaga, was appointed as the new creative director of GUCCI. His appointment is seen as a major turning point for the brand as it seeks to reshape its identity and regain its market share.
The direction first shown in Demna's "La Famiglia"
Demna's first collection, "La Famiglia," was released after he took over, and it was a lookbook that heralded the next era for Gucci. Here are some highlights:
- As the collection title "La Famiglia" suggests, the collection features a variety of "characters/roles" (such as "Influencer," "La Bomba," "Miss Aperitivo," and "La Principessa"), each of which is intended to embody "Gucciness."
- While referencing classic GUCCI codes (monogram, bamboo bags, horsebit, floral print, etc.), the collection is notable for incorporating them with new arrangements and a playful spirit, rather than simply "showing them as they are from the past." For example, coats, silhouettes with slightly emphasized shoulders, shiny materials, and sexy, revealing details are making a comeback, and there is a clear reintroduction of "drama," a departure from the minimalist tone seen in the De Sarno period.
- There are also changes in the way fashion is presented. Brands are now showing their collections ahead of the runway show, such as by surprise release of lookbooks on Instagram, and are adopting strategies to capture customer interest in real time. Furthermore, they are also introducing a "see-now, buy-now" format, with limited sales in stores in 10 cities, shortening the traditional practice of waiting several months after the show.
What has changed/what are the challenges?
Demna's era is predicated on "quoting" Gucci's traditions and past glories, but the way in which he quotes, the balance, and the timing of his announcements are clearly different from previous eras.
- Redefining tradition: Rather than simply using the monogram, the collection visually reminds us of GUCCI's founding story by using the trunk (suitcase) as a symbol of its origins as a travel item and by using the look name "L'Archetipo (Archive)." This can be seen as an attempt to strengthen the brand's heritage codes.
- A return to drama and sensuality: exposure, gloss, and embellishment—elements present under Michele but toned down under De Sarno. Demna has adopted the keywords "unapologetically sexy, extravagant, and daring," and has taken the brand's image in a stronger, more visually appealing direction.
- Accelerating marketing and sales strategies: We are seeing a pattern of signature "see-now, buy-now" introductions and advance sales limited to major cities. This is evidence that shortening the previous cycle of "pre-show → runway → in-store" and adopting a strategy to connect with customers faster is considered a business imperative.
conclusion
Demna's appointment and the launch of his first collection with "La Famiglia" marks a significant turning point in Gucci's latest designer journey, revisiting the brand's colorful identity, decorativeness and past glory, but bringing it to market with more drama, sensuality and agility.
This movement can also be seen as evidence that the luxury industry as a whole is calling for a "strong, recognizable brand image once again."
