“robe de chambre COMME des GARÇONS” 90’s Textured stand collar concealed front jacket

Within COMME des GARÇONS, which has long continued to cultivate expressions that preserve the outlines of everyday clothing while inserting a quiet sense of discomfort and sculptural experimentation into it, we are pleased to introduce a standout piece—robe de chambre COMME des GARÇONS—where Rei Kawakubo’s ideas are reflected in an especially straightforward manner, thanks to its highly impressive material expression.

Made entirely with polyester crepe-chenille fabric featuring fine, intricate texture, this piece does not reflect light uniformly; instead, it creates depth within the surface through subtle gradations of shadow. The soft, off-white tone is not merely light and airy, but rather, the quiet tension comes from the natural undulation retained in the fabric itself—this is truly what makes this individual piece special.

The neckline is a stand collar that rises low, and the edge is treated with an ambiguous process that suggests a cut-off feel. As a result, unlike the clearly defined outline typically seen in standard tailored jackets, it creates a soft line that gently sways when worn. The front is constructed with a hidden placket, designed to minimize the visibility of buttons from the outside; with decoration stripped away, the subtle minimalism characteristic of the late 1990s Garçons strongly comes through, leaving only the character of the material to take center stage.

A small patch pocket is placed at the chest, and at the waist position, there is a roomy pocket aligned along the switching seam. Since this structure shifts the visual balance downward, even with a slightly shorter overall length, it does not look childish; instead, it leads into a distinctive design that visually organizes the center of the body. The shoulders are not overly structured and fall naturally, and the sleeves are treated in a straight manner—so when worn, only the outline remains quietly, and you can say it is a garment that is completed through the wearer’s own movements.

On the inner care label, you can confirm the notation AD1998 and the product code RJ-10009L, and it is also accompanied by a woven name that states “robe de chambre.” This makes it clear that the piece belongs to a line produced before 2004. Based on the year-based management rules at COMME des GARÇONS at the time as well, it can be judged as a highly reliable item made in 1998. It overlaps with the period when Rei Kawakubo was—after the 1997 sculptural experiments—translating the incompleteness of forms and material changes caused by heat processing into everyday wear. Therefore, this irregular wrinkle texture and the ambiguity at the edge of the collar can be said to be details that very succinctly express the philosophy of that era.

Although it bears a line name derived from homewear, this piece nevertheless maintains an outline that works as outerwear for going out. By borrowing the form of a tailored style yet not rushing the completion—and instead leaving a little space to breathe—the sense of distance from clothing, so characteristic of Rei Kawakubo, is expressed clearly here. Even with a strong presence, it does not push itself too far forward, making it something you will want to grow with over time and naturally choose according to the mood of the day.

For styling, the jacket’s ambiguous outline is further emphasized by pairing it with drapey trousers or a skirt with a straight silhouette. In addition, inserting a light shirt or a smooth cut-and-sew piece underneath creates a difference in “temperature” between the materials, resulting in a standout item that naturally incorporates the quiet tension typical of COMME des GARÇONS into everyday life.

We would be delighted if you took advantage of this opportunity.